Tang Stamp Press

Chill8433

Well-Known Member
How do you stampers get a good stamp in your knives? Do you hammer or press?

I have researched past threads. Sounds like some do it heated red and some do it cold. I would prefer cold press and would assume it requires more pressure, but how much pressure?

Any press pictures would be great!
 
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Stamp press

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...Keep is simple.
 
I made a small press that uses a 6 ton bottle Jack. It works good but could use a 8 or 10 ton bottle Jack as I had to lengthen the handle twice as long.
 
tang stamp holder

Here's what I use for a stamp holder. It's built by Owen Vernon.
 

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I think a lot of people over think and over build stamp presses. I use just a straight up, simple, unaltered arbor press from harbor freight. There is no need to modify it at all. Then you can still use it for other things. This is the setup that I use.

The whole process takes about 1 minute or less.

Here's a picture of the press. It costs about $30 I think. It's bolted to the bench and there is a piece of 1/4" mild steel plate just setting on the base of the press.

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Here's the blade set on the base ready to place my stamp. It has a layer of masking tape to protect the ricasso from scratches on both sides. The tape also helps keep the stamp from slipping.

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Now I have positioned my stamp where I want it and bring the press arm forward so the weight of the ram holds the stamp in place. I check quick to make sure the stamp is straight up and down front to back and side to side.

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Lastly I take the press arm handle and apply some pressure to the stamp so nothing moves or bounces then I give the ram a good rap with the hammer to ensure a good deep stamp. And done. No bouncing, no double stamp and no hassle.

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This is just how I do it. I'm only trying to demonstrate that you can stamp without buying that expensive holder or doing a lot of work to modify an existing press.

My stamps come out exactly where I want them on the blade and perfect everytime. I stamp my blades cold but they are annealed and dead soft when I do it. Thermal cycling always follows stamping.
 
John, that is exactly what I needed and thanks for the details. I would not have thought of using tape.

Clint

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk
 
Your welcome Clint. :)

And here are the finished results (excuse the dust and lint on the ricasso):

 
A metallurgist told me once that if you stamp it when it's hot you create stress in the steel which is not good,...anyway i stamp them when there hot with hand and hammer and works good for me, never had any stress problems, only inconsistent stamping;)
 
A metallurgist told me once that if you stamp it when it's hot you create stress in the steel which is not good,...anyway i stamp them when there hot with hand and hammer and works good for me, never had any stress problems, only inconsistent stamping;)

And there is the trouble for me. I've tested and abused quite a few blades to total destruction in various ways and not one time, ever, has a blade broken at my stamp or given me any indication that the blade broke due to stresses from stamping.

Like I said, I stamp cold but do careful thermal cycling after stamping. It does put stresses in the steel for sure. Not disagreeing with you about that. I guess getting my stamp centered and straight is important for me, especially seeing how I have no evidence that my stamp ever caused a failure.

Just my opinion. Others experiences may differ. :)
 
The pressure required is directly proportional to the surface area of your stamp. Some stamps require arbor press pressures and some stamps will require 12+ tons of force to press the stamp into cold annealed steel. Less stamp surface area=Less pressure=simple, light duty press like Mr. Doyle uses.

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