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I thought the same thing and would agree that fixed blades would be better in two categories. Bowie/fighters and hunters/skinners. Grinding a little hunter is a piece of cake compared to a large bowie.

Probably because paypal like ebay are a bunch of leftwing anti gun/weapon libs and don't want to pay for it because they consider it some kind of weapon. Just like Ebay banned selling perfectly legal stuff on there like reloading components. I'm just guessing but it's probably a good guess.:les:

The loveless bolts are going to give you a nice fit and finish with the similar look. The rivet has to stay domed in order to stay together although if domed nicely and polished would look good and possibly be more period depending on the look you want. I'd like to see the other side of that...

Mark, that looks good, what finish did you have one the blade prior to the mustard?

I've been wanting to make some period looking knives with a patina but never thought of trying D2. Didn't figure it would take it well. Did you dip it in mustard and vinegar or just rub it on?

D2 is darn near a stainless and the CPM fine grain probably makes it even more stain resistant.

The most difficult part any more is getting my butt to doing it, the rest aint bad and I have a blast once I'm going, just seems like there are so many other things in the way to get motivated anymore.

That looks like a rivet and anvil. Are both sides the same? Look at some of the pics of my period gun leather and see if it's the same. I use copper rivets on my period stuff but I dome the head instead of flattening it.

Clensoil is another amazing product I just recently started using. It is the best thing I've ever tried on muzzle loading firearms that have had that nasty Pyrodex in them. That stuff is terribly corrosive and Clensoil is the very best thing I've tried for this. It works better than Corrosion X...

I will say WD-40 is very effective for our area. I used to use a lot more than I do now that I have a large portion of my shop climate controlled. It's cheap enough I used to have a can sitting around an nearly every machine and used to keep my bare engine parts and wrenches sprayed with it. I...

I've been wanting to get some stencils from him, just havent gotten around to getting it all done.

D2 is a good choice. It works good and fairly stain resistant.

I would politely tell him I didn't feel like we could do business and move on.

I use one of these http://knifedogs.com/showthread.php?2018-Marking-Methods-model-300-used

I can't tell the difference between it and ATS. They are almost the same stuff anyway. 300 series is gummy, whether it be grinding or machining.

I agree 100%. I can do four local gun shows for the table price of Blade show and not have the travel expense. At the same time am as likely to sell as much at each of those shows as I am at Blade. Keep in mind when a gun show customer sees a knife they've just got to have or order one similar...

I just run all my metal band saws on the slowest speed and never worry about it.

On stainless guards that need a lot removed I will grind or mill away the bulk of it before gluing it up so I don't build up heat on the handle material trying to grind it all away. If it's a brass guard I'll just glue up the whole mess and grind away everything that doesn't look like a knife.

When I used to use a vertical/horizontal saw for cutting out my blades I had a seat off of an old exercise machine that I clamp in the vise while it was in the vertical position and I could sit down put my feet up and ride it like a motorcycle. It was pretty comfy.

It's not the motor it's the gearing or pulleys. My brother has an old saw that someone converted for metal. It has a huge pulley at the top and a very small one on the motor. It works good.