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If you grind deep (like you would on bevels) I don't think it will keep them straight... You want some residual peening to remain just below the surface on the flats.

Yeah it will leave some dents that need to be ground out but they aren't very deep maybe a couple thousandths (at least with the hammer I use). Yeah I understand the concern on grinding more... I normally leave mine about .010" oversized so .005" would be cutting it pretty close. But I would...

How much over the final thickness are they right now? You need a carbide peening hammer... (I use the 8oz one) You tap on the concave side to spread the metal out and it will straighten the blade, then you just grind off the surface dents from it and the blade stays straight. An SGA is great...

Congrats on getting back up and running! Which mask and set up did you end up getting?

I lined a kydex sheath with leather using CA glue and it's holding up amazing, no peeling whatsoever. But personally for connecting kydex to kydex I prefer rivets since you can drill them out and remove to clean down the road

I would probably sandblast, degrease, epoxy (gflex or blade pro ) and clamp. You could try CA glue as well on a couple scrap pieces and see if it has enough holding power for you

Sunray will make you one out of polyurethane for a great price... Shoot they may even strip and refinish that for even cheaper. Just specify that you want minimum runout on the concentricity of the wheel.

The SGA is excellent for some things... I don't like it for finish grinding the flats though. If you already have a grind in the blade or skeletonize your tang then the belt will remove more material where the is less metal contact with the belt and you will get some slight dips there. Nothing...

3x12" iirc It runs great! I can get a decent finish right off of the wheel within a couple of thoun(so I use it for hogging/getting close) then I take to my real surface grinder to finish up!

It's a huge pain... Every time you flip a knife you have to get the chuck super clean. I was fortunate enough to get an on/off chuck from Northridge tool that I mounted to my reeder and it works super well

That's awesome man! I'm surprised they did it with a moq of 120 pieces, everywhere I've talked to us AT LEAST 200 They look incredible by the way, great job!!!

That dude at the power hammer has some SKILLS wow!

That is crazy!! He was turning that edge black and blue though while grinding after final fit up. But it's incredible what some people can accomplish with minimal tooling!!

Cool yeah I do the same thing! Washers are very finicky and require super precise tolerances to get them smooth with no play....I've thought about switching to skiff bearings myself!

That's a lot of work there! Thanks for sharing, love seeing the pics. Are you running these on washers or bearings?

What was telling (about equipment the competitors have at home) was that FIF had a couple TW90's for a WHILE before anyone ever used the horizontal tilt feature... Most never knew it could do that! Blew my mind lol

Ken, so after you demag a blade and then move it through a pile of grinding dust it won't attract any like my Pic above?

It happens to my knives mainly after I surface grind using the magnetic chuck haha

Hey guys. So I've got a vintage electric pass - through type demagnetizer but I did leave it on one time too long and it started smoking. That being said it still seems to work as I can feel the magnetic field like normal when I turn it on. The problem is I'm still getting some very light...

Couldn't you also grind them in post ht with a small wheel on your grinder in horizontal mode?