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If it were me, I'd probably try to keep them at 160" long, and make a longer tool arm to accommodate the extra length. :D Might even add some intermediate idlers and run it in a serpentine configuration to help shorten things up a bit. Or you could make a "super platen" with a few different...

For what you'd pay for a vibratory bowl tumbler, I'd just buy a cheap cement mixer from Harbor Freight and throw some rocks in it. Alternatively, there's a number of videos on youtube for make a rotary style tumbler with anything from a pvc pipe to a 5 gallon bucket and some roller skate wheels.

Not a book, per say, but Chris Crawford had a good amount of slipjoint making videos on his website.

That’s a beautiful piece!

Yeah, Hardcore products and accessories are generally pretty pricey. They’re after that California money. :D

If you like that grinder, check out "The Maximizer" by Hardcore Products. It'll set you back about $6k IIRC, though. o_O

To give the short answer: Yes, you can use an 8" wheel, 52100 will work, and I would grind it hard. Heat treat and quench a blade that's .005" at the edge, and you're gonna have a bad day. To give a slightly longer answer: wheel diameters and stock thickness will depend on what size razor you...

Wait... hold on a minute... say WHAT?!? What month is this? What week? Who's president? o_O

Looks pretty slick for what it is. Seems to be well put together with a nice UI. I'd worry about long term reliability and program glitches though, having dealt with similar controllers on some industrial machines in a past career. $4k+ is pretty steep too, especially considering you can...

Does your VFD display give any kind of fault code? It's possible that you need to adjust some parameters on the drive. Do you have the manual?

Buffing Arbor Assembly You can get one of these buffing arbor assemblies for less than $200. It'll give you a little more clearance and you can have two different buffs going at a time. Use your motor to drive it. It also allows you to have 3 different speeds.

Sounds like a fun idea. I might drop in on one if the time and day lined up. I'm CST, FWIW.

It's no more dangerous than when you have to open the oven to take the heated blade out for quenching. One thing I'll mention: Let your oven get up to set point and soak for at least 30 to 45 minutes before you open the door to put a blade in. This will help ensure that the temperature is a bit...

I've used in the .110-.120 range for what I would call an extra large slipjoint, but typically I like to start in the .090 to .100 range as others have mentioned. Given your two options, I'd probably lean towards the .080 for a smaller slipjoint, or I'd thin down the .120 a bit more.

Yeah, same here, which I've never understood.. I'm about 50 miles southeast of Chicago. How is there not a Blade Show Midwest, or any Chicagoland knife shows? Somebody needs to rent out McCormick Place and make it happen.

https://www.knifemagazine.com/events/category/knife-shows-etc/

Why is he no longer posting here?

I used to work with a guy who was welding in the rain once. He put up a blue poly tarp behind and above him to stay dry and continued welding for the rest of the day. He didn’t realize it at the time, but the arc flashes were reflecting off the tarp and back into his hood. He said it was the...

One thing I should also mention: Magnifiers can make a big difference too, whether you wear glasses or not. The hood I show has a clip for your standard welding hood magnifiers, though I seem to have misplaced the couple of sets I had laying around the shop. I don't always use them, but...

Given the recent welding table thread, I thought I'd make a video on a couple of tips that have dramatically helped the quality of my welding setup and results. If you follow me on Instagram, you may have seen these tips already. Just to be clear, I'm not a professional or certified welder by...