An attempt at a Hamon

I use mostly W2 for the kitchenware I make. I started using Brownell's PBC anti scale compound, instead of clay about a year ago. I find it easier to control the pattern and the results are decent. The blade is heated to 200fh before the liquid is applied. I quench using Parks 50 @ room temp.

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Doug Lester said:
You might want to find that blade and sand it polish it to see if you have a hamon. You could even regrind the blade to remove the over tempered area of the edge or just simply start over on the quenching and tempering. That blade should be salvageble enough to finish up and use as a test knife.

Doug
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I totally agree with Doug. Always something to be learned from these kinds of things. Could be a valuable piece of 'scrap' in many ways.
 
Thanks guys. What happened was, and I do it pretty often when I am grinding after heat treat, I ground the edge too thin. I get to concentrating so hard on getting my grind totally flat and uniform with regard to getting out the previous belt scratches that I just make too many passes and suddenly I look up and a 1"-2" section of the blade about 1/4" high is bright blue. and it's so thin that some of the edge of the blade has eroded away. I guess I should ask the question: How thick should my edge be when I'm finished with the 2 400 grit passes that John mentions above? I hope you guys don't get as impatient with me as I get with myself.

Wallace
 
I convex my edges to almost sharp with the 400 grit belt before I start my hand sanding. Edge thickness prior to that will depend on knife size, steel type and hardness. When I'm done (or even during) hand sanding, I could cut myself very easily on my edges.

As far as the other blade, you could still hit it with a 400 grit belt and etch it for 30 seconds. It will tell you a lot.

Send me your email address again and I'll email you some pics. I can't find your address though I'm sure you sent it to me. jdoyleknives AT gmail DOT com
 
If you work your edge very thin you are apt to over heat that the edge from friction from the belt. Watch the pressure you're putting on the blade against belt and remember to cool in water often. Every pass if you need to. Also keep your blade moving across the belt from the time it makes contact until the point clears. Don't think that you are facing a problem that many, if not most, of us have faced.

Doug
 
wmhammond said:
Thanks guys. What happened was, and I do it pretty often when I am grinding after heat treat, I ground the edge too thin. I get to concentrating so hard on getting my grind totally flat and uniform with regard to getting out the previous belt scratches that I just make too many passes and suddenly I look up and a 1"-2" section of the blade about 1/4" high is bright blue. and it's so thin that some of the edge of the blade has eroded away. I guess I should ask the question: How thick should my edge be when I'm finished with the 2 400 grit passes that John mentions above? I hope you guys don't get as impatient with me as I get with myself.

Wallace
Click to expand...

i ad 0.010 to 0.015" to the desired final thickness of the edge before heat treat. This is the amount I remove cleaning up the decarb (0.003" per side in the kiln, might be a bit more in a forge) and in the finishing process.
 
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