An attempt at a Hamon

It also helps if you can spot decalesence. That's a shadow that passes across the blade as the steel changes phases. As the blade heats it will get a brighter red or orange-red and then it will dull slightly, like a shadow. Then it will brighten again. At this point the iron matrix in the steel has changed from body centered to face centered cubes and is ready to quench. It helps if you try this in a darkened area or even after sundown. I still back up with a magnet, however.

Doug
 
Well, thank you Rex, It's nice meeting you too. I sincerely appreciate your help and I am listening. Yes, I do know how to use a magnet in the heat treat process and use it every time even though I am getting to understand the different colors of steel pretty well. Thanks again.

Wallace
 
Doug Lester said:
It also helps if you can spot decalesence. That's a shadow that passes across the blade as the steel changes phases. As the blade heats it will get a brighter red or orange-red and then it will dull slightly, like a shadow. Then it will brighten again. At this point the iron matrix in the steel has changed from body centered to face centered cubes and is ready to quench. It helps if you try this in a darkened area or even after sundown. I still back up with a magnet, however.

Doug
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Doug,

Thanks for your help. I have noticed that dark shadow but didn't know what it was. I'll watch closer from now on. See above about the magnet.

Wallace
 
Wallace does it already have a hamon? Or is the black line where you are going to place your clay?
 
John,

I sent you a PM. The black line is just marker showing where I plan to put the clay. I rough ground it with 80 grit and marked it. Left the edge at about 1/16". If you think I'm ready to go I'll clay it up tomorrow and post some pics. Also, after heating it like you told me should I quench the W-2 in brine first (2 sec) then Canola of just go straight to Canola?

Warren,
I'm excited about every one :1:

Wallace
 
Clay line looks decent. I'm not sure about the canola vs. brine. I don't use either. I have parks 50. I used canola a bit when I first started on 1080 and it didn't give me the results I was looking for. I've heard others say that it's pretty fast. Whatever you use, it will need to be fast for W2. I might be tempted to try the brine first then into the canola if I was in your shoes.
 
A traditional Japanese technique to make Hamon stand out without etching , is to hand polish the blade above the hamon with silicon carbide paper about 600- 1000 grit.. I t makes a good contrast . 20 weight non detergent motor oil is very good fast quench . It has about the same viscosity as parks 50. And is almost a straight polymer. Just a few hints that might help you. Bubba
 
Bubba, That little gem of information is something I have never seen posted on Knifedogs (or anywhere else for that matter) and I have seen Parks 50 mentioned 100's of times. Thank you. I'm going to clay this knife up today and I'll post some pics. Then I'm on my way to NAPA to pick up a couple of quarts of .20 detergent motor oil. Thanks,

Wallace
 
wmhammond said:
Bubba, That little gem of information is something I have never seen posted on Knifedogs (or anywhere else for that matter) and I have seen Parks 50 mentioned 100's of times. Thank you. I'm going to clay this knife up today and I'll post some pics. Then I'm on my way to NAPA to pick up a couple of quarts of .20 detergent motor oil. Thanks,

Wallace[/QUOTE)


WALLACE BUY 20 WEIGHT NON DETERGENT .DETERGENT OILS ARE NOT TOO GOOD FOR QUENCHING........... 20 WEIGHT ARE POLYMER OILS LIKE PARKS
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Not Detergent oil ...Non Detergent . It has about the same viscosity as parks and is a polymer oil like parks 50.
 
It looks pretty good. I maybe would have pulled some areas up towards the spine so you had opens spots that went up towards the spine with long 'fingers' that reached down toward the cutting edge.
 
You know, John< I think you're right. I fall into the trap of thinking that the Hamon line will follow the clay line exactly even when I know it won't. Shouldn't be too big of a problem though because I'm probably going to ping the knife during HT anyway ;). By the way, did you ever read the Private Message I sent you?
Thanks, John

Wallace
 
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Just saw it now Wallace. My internet was out all yesterday afternoon and last night so just saw it this morning. I sent you a reply with my email address too.
 
UPDATE Got through the quench with the blade still intact. Quenched in brine for 2 seconds (no ping) rested 2 seconds and then into Canola. Clay held on in the oil for a while and then fell off. Went immediately into temper - 2 cycles at 350 and cool in the oven to room temp. The knife is straight and with no cracks. Now ready to clean it up and hand sand. John, how far should I take it on the grinder before I start to hand sand? Thanks,

Wallace
 
I'd make sure that I got a REALLY GOOD, FLAT 220 finish on it first. Than maybe a couple passes per side on a new 400 grit belt. You should be able to start hand sanding at 400 then.

Side note: 350 F. temper will leave a W2 blade screaming hard if you did all the rest right in the austenitizing and quenching. I'd consider going at least to 400 F. and maybe 425 F. but that's just my opinion.
 
Bad day in Las Cruces. Burned the edge on this knife Bad and had to toss it - kinda lost my concentration. Us old guys call 'em Brain F***s. Happens way too often around here. Never got to the point of seeing if I had a Hamon or not. Cut out another one and got it all the way to clay up before sunset. Letting it sit overnight to set up. Stay tuned.

Wallace
 
You might want to find that blade and sand it polish it to see if you have a hamon. You could even regrind the blade to remove the over tempered area of the edge or just simply start over on the quenching and tempering. That blade should be salvageble enough to finish up and use as a test knife.

Doug
 
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