brass pinned handles

S

steelerfan88

Well-Known Member
I know that any mechanical bolting type fastener is stronger but if using 1/4" brass pins and a top quality epoxy like Acra-Glass or West Labs and proper application techniques are followed, what are the chances a handle will fail under use ? I would think that the handle material would fail long before the actual joint would. Have any of you seen a PROPERLY APPLIED PINNED HANDLE fail ? I personally have not. Just wondering for my own studies :)
 
I've never seen one fail with those conditions, but I'm pretty new at this. I have never even considered an epoxied handle failing when pins are used. For a test, I epoxied wood scales to a folder liner, then sheared wood scales off using a hammer - wood broke and really damaged before epoxy failure. The scales will come off, but the wood was broken up. With pins that are "roughed" up good and epoxied in - nope, don't think you'll ever have a problem.

With that said, I've started using Corby screws rather than pins because they are easy to install and only add $2 or so per knife to the material cost. I'm sure I've read where other makers have indicated they use Corby screws due to failure problems with pins..... I think.

Ken H>
 
If you will drill holes in the tang, the epoxy will form bridges from one scale to the other, making a very strong bond independent of the metal to scale bond. Even with horn. I most often swiss cheese mine. It takes a torch to get the scales off. A hammer will not break that bond. I've tried with a 3lb hammer and could not. However, the pins punched out easily, but they are more for shear strength than holding down the scales, even though they do help to.
 
LRB said:
If you will drill holes in the tang, the epoxy will form bridges from one scale to the other, making a very strong bond independent of the metal to scale bond. Even with horn. I most often swiss cheese mine. It takes a torch to get the scales off. A hammer will not break that bond. I've tried with a 3lb hammer and could not. However, the pins punched out easily, but they are more for shear strength than holding down the scales, even though they do help to.
Click to expand...

Once the glue has fully cured and the pins are trimmed down a bit, is it a good idea to smack the pins with a hammer against the anvil to swell them before grinding them flush ?
 
No reason to smack the pins - just be sure there are nice "rough" areas on the pin inside the scale area. I've took a hacksaw and make rings spaced along the pin, being sure the rings are well below the finished scale level. As Wick says with proper prep, epoxy is going to hold scales nicely. I don't have the experience to comment on 10 yrs or 20 yrs down the road, but epoxy has a good reputation.... just look how long fiberglass boats have been floating.

Ken H>
 
Like others have said, rough the pins up on the belt sander and with good epoxy they will hold. I have done this for over 30 years and have never seen one fail.
 
I would not peen the ends of the pins. One slip and you're ruined the scales. If you want a mechanical hold then use rivets or bolts.

Doug
 
On some of the early type knives I make, peening is necessary in order to be historically correct, but it takes a lot of care to do so without striking the scale material. Even being very careful, sometimes it happens anyway.
 
The way I see some idiots treating their knives (batoning and such) they really have no business with a fine knife. I have a buddy who is a prepping freak and is always bitching about his knives failing from the abuse....I tell him...why dont you just carry a small hatchet if your gonna beat, bang and chop wood ? Come on dude....exersize a little common sense :)
 
steelerfan88 said:
Once the glue has fully cured and the pins are trimmed down a bit, is it a good idea to smack the pins with a hammer against the anvil to swell them before grinding them flush ?
Click to expand...

Don't smack and swell them. Look at any old knife that has peened pins and you will likely see a crack around the pin. The wood/natural material (wood, bone) will eventually crack from the pressure the pin is putting on it. Natural material moves with humidity and if it swells and shrinks from humidity, eventually the material will crack. Just let the epoxy do it's job.

If you want a more secure fastener, use a corby or lovelass fastner to hold the scale in place.

Micarta/g10, smack away. It's pretty tough stuff and won't have the constant movement wood has.
 
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