Contact wheel outside edge radius?

S

Sampson knifeworks

Well-Known Member
Hi everybody! I would like to know what other makers are doing with your outside edges of your contact wheels? I have been putting a small radius on mine with a sanding block, but not very precise. Getting ready to have my wheels re-tired @ Sunray Inc. When I call them I'm going to ask them to put a 1/16" or 1/8" radius on the outside edge if possible? Anybody have this done? I like to have a smooth transition on my hollow grind shoulders and drifting the belt over the wheel works with the rough grinding "stiffer belts" but as soon as you go to flexy finish belts this changes the radius.:steve:
Thanks in advance for your input !!
Sincerely,
Sampson Knifeworks
 
I just did it mysef. Mine is about and 1/8". I have "adjusted" it a little to even each side out a little. I've heard of some makers using a very sharp chisel to do it, just using the edge.

-John
 
Thanks John! I was kicking around the idea of using a 1/8" radius carbide router bit with a bearing guide, but a little chicken to try it. Before I re-tire my wheel maybe I will experiment!
Clint Sampson
Sampson Knifeworks
 
I haven't yet found a need to go to this. I do the simple thing which is to run the belt, which must have some fexibility, over the edge. I do almost 100% hollow grinds but use the same approach for any flat grinds. The cutting edges on my blades are 4" or shorter. Frank
 
I've never intentionally done this, but over the course of time/use the edges will get radiused all by themselves. Personally, I would just let it wear down on it's own, otherwise if you intentionally do it, the radius will become overly large with time. You probably already know about it, but try running more flexible belts out past the edge(s) of the wheel and then "fold" the belt over the edge(s) during grinding....it saves a lot of wear and tear on contact wheels, and accomplishes the same thing without you having to remove material from the contact wheel(s).
 
Thanks Guy's for your input! I do run my abrasives over the edge of the wheel and kill the sharp edges with a smooth round piece of steel, training the belt to curl over the wheel. It seems like a sharp edge of a new wheel will still transfer through a flexible belt the same way a stray grit embedded in your wheel will doom your finish. Now when I use a cork belt for finishing they are stiff enough to train the edge to where the contact wheel does not have to be perfect, but I do not always want to use cork belts either! Maintaining my wheels have not been at the top of my priority list, but I am realizing that it is very important for a quality hollow grind as much as sharp abrasives! My dusty wallet seems to get in my way though, I'm sure many can relate.
Sincerely,
Clint Sampson
 
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Usually the first thing I do when breaking out a new 60 grit is take a couple swipes on the tang to break the edge over before I start on the blade. The other belts are flexible enough without purposely doing this.
 
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