Freds Edge
Well-Known Member
Ken , I am going out to the shop to double check my voltage numbers.
DIY teacher versus store bought
- Thread starter csalt09
- Start date
Self Made Knives
Well-Known Member
Ken, are you our forum etcher pro now? Is that a paying position? I keep wanting to jump in here and offer advice, but not sure if I should. First off, I can't figure out why the stencils aren't lasting. I've got stencils that I've used at least 20 times and still look good as new, not sure what's going there. I keep my etcher on the low voltage setting, 17vdc, and I hold down for down for 5 or 6 seconds and release for a second. Usually do that about 5 times and I'm done, takes less than a minute. I also clean the stencils when I'm done, first by just soaking them in water for a few minutes, then lightly scrubbing the crud out with my fingers. I've used "bought" stencils and now make my own, and haven't any trouble with either.
The first wand I made was with a copper bar. To be blunt, it sucked. The copper reacted with the etching solution too much and made a mess. Then I tried a stainless steel bar, a little better, but after about 5 etches it too starting corroding. Then, Hoefelter (that's probably spelled wrong) post a video on here showing how he used carbon motor brushes for his pad. AWESOME!!!! I haven't had any issues with etching or crud since switching to brushes.
Boss Dog also has a good video on etching.
The first wand I made was with a copper bar. To be blunt, it sucked. The copper reacted with the etching solution too much and made a mess. Then I tried a stainless steel bar, a little better, but after about 5 etches it too starting corroding. Then, Hoefelter (that's probably spelled wrong) post a video on here showing how he used carbon motor brushes for his pad. AWESOME!!!! I haven't had any issues with etching or crud since switching to brushes.
Boss Dog also has a good video on etching.
Freds Edge
Well-Known Member
I rechecked my voltage and I am more confused then ever , I may have confused my etch and mark positions. The readings in one position is 11.7 ac and 66.4 dc , if I switch the readings I get 25.4 DC and 28.4 AC.
Awwww shucks, I've done this more times than I like to think - start a post, then hop over to another page to check something, come back and it's all gone requiring me to start all over! Looks like by now I'd do my writing in notepad, then do a copy 'n paste once I've got it where I'm really ready to post. OK, here goes again.
Anthony - NO!!! I am NOT an expert at etching. I do know a tad about electronics, and these etcher circuits are just simple little things. I built my etcher from spare parts laying around - built a couple of them in fact, one for a buddy and one for me.
Ya'll have the right idea, 3 or 5 seconds down, then up a second, then back down again. This does two things, one allows the stencil to cool a bit, and also to allow gas produced during the chemical reaction to escape. I'm not experienced enough to understand why a variable voltage etcher is required - with around 18-20 vdc and 17 volts or so AC seems to work just fine, and doesn't cause too much stencil heating. 12 vdc will certianly etch, just takes a bit longer. My first stencil was from Ernie, but the rest I've made using IMG stencil material. Patricia seems very knowledgeable and helpful.
A 24 vdc transformer (RS 173-1512 used) is a bit high. There you've got 24 vac, and with a full wave bridge and capacitor you've got over 30 vdc (open circuit) which is really a bit on the high side. How much the actual working voltage is depends on amount of voltage drop. That is measured with pad down.
In the image above you can see the "humps" the arrow tagged "Waveform without Capacitor" is point to. This shows how much ripple is from using only a diode bridge. By adding a filtering capacitor (220uF to 500uF) the final result is shown as much smoother. Which is best? Heck if I know, maybe there is no difference. Just thought I'd show what the capacitor is used for.
Fred, you said you have " 25.4 DC and 28.4 AC." h "IF" that had been 25.4 VAC and 28.4VDC I would have said that's about right. If you're using that radio shack 173-1512 transformer, you "should" be getting around 25 VAC, and with the full wave bridge I'd accept the 28 vdc, but wouldn't have been surprised if dc voltage had been a tad over 30 volts. Those are open circuit voltages?
Sure would be nice to have ya'll sitting here in shop - we'd help us all understand better.
Ken H>
Anthony - NO!!! I am NOT an expert at etching. I do know a tad about electronics, and these etcher circuits are just simple little things. I built my etcher from spare parts laying around - built a couple of them in fact, one for a buddy and one for me.
Ya'll have the right idea, 3 or 5 seconds down, then up a second, then back down again. This does two things, one allows the stencil to cool a bit, and also to allow gas produced during the chemical reaction to escape. I'm not experienced enough to understand why a variable voltage etcher is required - with around 18-20 vdc and 17 volts or so AC seems to work just fine, and doesn't cause too much stencil heating. 12 vdc will certianly etch, just takes a bit longer. My first stencil was from Ernie, but the rest I've made using IMG stencil material. Patricia seems very knowledgeable and helpful.
A 24 vdc transformer (RS 173-1512 used) is a bit high. There you've got 24 vac, and with a full wave bridge and capacitor you've got over 30 vdc (open circuit) which is really a bit on the high side. How much the actual working voltage is depends on amount of voltage drop. That is measured with pad down.
In the image above you can see the "humps" the arrow tagged "Waveform without Capacitor" is point to. This shows how much ripple is from using only a diode bridge. By adding a filtering capacitor (220uF to 500uF) the final result is shown as much smoother. Which is best? Heck if I know, maybe there is no difference. Just thought I'd show what the capacitor is used for.
Fred, you said you have " 25.4 DC and 28.4 AC." h "IF" that had been 25.4 VAC and 28.4VDC I would have said that's about right. If you're using that radio shack 173-1512 transformer, you "should" be getting around 25 VAC, and with the full wave bridge I'd accept the 28 vdc, but wouldn't have been surprised if dc voltage had been a tad over 30 volts. Those are open circuit voltages?
Sure would be nice to have ya'll sitting here in shop - we'd help us all understand better.
Ken H>
McClellan Made Blades
Well-Known Member
Since I bought my unit, before I knew I could build one, AND mine came with 2 different types
of solution, one for HC and one SS, that is exactly what I was gonna say, I do not what the difference
is between the two, so no help there, if I can dig it up and find my etcher, I might be able to take a look
Tonight! See if it says the content..., if it says anything at aa