First Knife WIP-Round Two

silver_pilate said:
Jeffrey,

That's looking real good so far. I don't envy the file work :D. As you get closer to your desired bevel height, you can draw file if you like. It take a bit of practice to get it right, but it will blend and flaten things out nicely. Make sure to keep your file clean. I'm talking like every pass as you get close to finished so as not to gall your work. Some chalk on the file can help it not to load up with metal filings as much.

I'm interested to see how you progress from here once you get the blade done. Keep up the good work!

--nathan
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Nathan,

That was so cool of you to swing on by!!! I have this distinct feeling this thread will last for month's. I am looking forward to your input as I move forward. These guy's that offer their advice have been awesome.

Thanks Again Nathan,

Jeff
 
A good Samaritan sent me a brand new Nicholson Magic Cut File. Has anyone ever heard of it? How would it be used? Is it an initial file for heavy removal?

Jeff
 
Hi Jeff , Doing good so far . I have one of those files and it is my favorite . It's not for real heavy removal , it's more for smoothing rough marks out . It is my transition tool , between grinding or filing , to the sandpaper . It leaves such a smooth finish I can go right to 220 paper after it . I draw file with it to smooth down any high spots or deep grind marks . It leaves the surface almost a frosted satin look , unlike other files , making it easy to see where you've cleaned up or something you missed . So , do most of your removal with a double cut or similar file , clean up with the Magic Cut , then sandpaper . Hope that helps , Bill
 
How about using this fine piece of wood for the handle instead of the stag?

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I'm currently in the middle of filing my first side. How will I know, (what am I looking for), when it's time to switch to sand paper? Below are more pics of filing the knife:


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Still Filing, so more will be following as I progress.

Thank You everyone for your comments and advice. Keep them coming!!!2thumbs2thumbs2thumbs2thumbs
 
Hi, Jeff, just wanted to throw in a little encouragement. The other guys have given you good advise so there's not much to say there, just wanted to say it looks like you are doing a good job. I made a knife with hand tools just once to see what it was like, was very hard and took a long time but well worth it like Ernie said. I think you learn a lot doing it by hand because you're up close and personal and the slow speed gives you time to understand the process more readily.

Also it will make you appreciate that grinder when you get it. :)

Don't get discouraged , your hard work and persistence will pay off when you hold that finished baby in your hands.

Larry
 
Larry,

Thank you for swinging on by!!! If you can, subscribe to this thread, I know as I progress along this project, I will be in dire need of expert advice such as yours. If it's just one thing I learned after 23 years in the military, it's the immense value of listening to different perspectives before making your own decision. I know that I am one of many request's for advice you might get, but like I said, I know I'll need the advice and support from Knife Dog Brother's, especially when tensions are mounting like chihuahua's in heat!!! Thanks again Larry!!!

Jeff
 
We are now at my first minor crisis. I have begun the other side and after reading your posts, I measured and found that I am at a nickel thick. My other issue is that on the side with the most work, my plunge is still pretty weak and there is a deep gash in front of it up as high as the spine. How would I get this gouge out without wreaking havoc with the bevel?

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Thank you again everyone for all your help, even the ones that just look, thanks for stopping by:D:D:D

Jeff
 
Okay, I'm not sure where I'm at, but I do know that I'm at a dimes width where the plunge lines meet at the blade. Do the plunge cuts start deepening and curving during the sanding stage? Because I have to say that mine are shallow and at almost 90 degrees. I can I tell if I'm ready to start with 80 grit sanding? Here are some pics to kind of show where I'm at:

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Thanks Everyone,

Jeff
 
Your plunge lines will not get deeper.
Looks good so far.

The little gouge you got can be taken out with flat sanding, Just put a piece of sand paper down on a flat, smooth surface and lay your knife on it and start sanding.
It takes for ever but it will take out that little gouge.
 
Ernie Swanson said:
Your plunge lines will not get deeper.
Looks good so far.

The little gouge you got can be taken out with flat sanding, Just put a piece of sand paper down on a flat, smooth surface and lay your knife on it and start sanding.
It takes for ever but it will take out that little gouge.
Click to expand...

Do you think I'm ready to start sanding now Ernie?

Jeff
 
If you have your bevels at the right angle, that you want yes you can start sanding.
Make sure you have something hard for a backer, I use a piece of flat steel.
When sanding I start with 80 grit and after all the scratches are out I go to the next. Alternating direction.
 
Ernie Swanson said:
If you have your bevels at the right angle, that you want yes you can start sanding.
Make sure you have something hard for a backer, I use a piece of flat steel.
When sanding I start with 80 grit and after all the scratches are out I go to the next. Alternating direction.
Click to expand...

I screwed up my plunge cuts I think, so I'm not confident in my decision to know if my bevels are ready for sanding. I don't want to over do it either. Ernie, can you tell by the last pics I provided?

Thanks Ernie.

Jeff
 
From the looks of the last two pics, they dont look too bad.
But, if your not happy with them keep working on them until you you get them the way you want.
 
Looks like you are coming along fine. I like the wood you posted for handle material.

It looks like you may be ready to do some sanding. You can always go back to the file if needed. The sanding should clean things up a little. Then you can decide if you need to file the plunge more.
 
Hi Jeff , a little suggestion if I may ? From what I see in your last pics , this is what I would do . I would move the filing guard back a 1/4" or so . Then I would use a round chainsaw file , $5 at Sears , to redo the plunge . A square plunge is much harder to clean up than a rounded one . File from the back to the edge , that way , when you rock the file , and you will , you'll hit the edge not the back . It's easier to clean up the edge . Use a marker Each pass to help see where you are hitting . When you have that to your satisfaction , use that Magic cut file as a draw file down the length of the bevel . That will tell if you are flat or not . The pictures make it look as if your cross section is more seed like than a V . Hope that helps . Bill
 
Looking at them looks like you have more of a convex grind.
If you want a flat grind then you are going to have to cut your plunge further up!
I am doing a couple right now I will take a pic in a bit and show you what I mean.
 
Yes,

I have gotten some inside help from Bill T and I was advised to fix those plunges!!! It was explained to me how I can do this, so that is my next priority. Here's goodbye to more metal!!!

Jeff
 
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