Frame Handle bowie

Alden Cole

Well-Known Member
Alrighty, profiled blade, rough ground, drilled tang holes, and into heat treat, wrapped in ss foil. Everything went as normal, until I pulled the blade out of the pouch. There was a dark area about a thumb width in the middle of the blade. Decarb and first time that's happened to me. I did three folds on the long edge to make sure that there would be no penetration, but in so doing I made it too tight, and when I finally got the blade into the pouch it must have ripped and made a small hole that was hidden by the folds, until after ht. Hopefully it grinds out, but at the soak times and heat that 440c goes at, and the thickness of the edge pre ht, I doubt it. Most likely I'll be starting over.
 

Chris Railey

KNIFE MAKER
Alrighty, profiled blade, rough ground, drilled tang holes, and into heat treat, wrapped in ss foil. Everything went as normal, until I pulled the blade out of the pouch. There was a dark area about a thumb width in the middle of the blade. Decarb and first time that's happened to me. I did three folds on the long edge to make sure that there would be no penetration, but in so doing I made it too tight, and when I finally got the blade into the pouch it must have ripped and made a small hole that was hidden by the folds, until after ht. Hopefully it grinds out, but at the soak times and heat that 440c goes at, and the thickness of the edge pre ht, I doubt it. Most likely I'll be starting over.
I recently HT'd my first stainless (AEB-L) blade and I had the same issue and discoloration in a larger area. It ground out just fine. Hopefully yours will too.
 

Alden Cole

Well-Known Member
At 120 it looks like I got past it. Sharpened it and did some testing, seemed good, so I will continue on. Anyone have any tips on how to help with belt bump? Even grinding with klingspor yellow at 120 I'm getting "worm tracks". If I put graphite or glass on it instead of the standard steel platen would that help? Thanks!
20210208_171948.jpg
 

Gilbert M

Active Member
I like graphite canvas or leather. Just use a little spray glue to attach them. Glass platen stays flat long than a steel platen but won't help the bump.
 
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EdCaffreyMS

"The Montana Bladesmith"
I know folks build in different manners, but when I build anything with a frame handle, I always have a mechanical method from the butt end. In my case, I often use a small clevis on the end of the tang, threaded 4-40, with a 4-40 screw through the rear of the frame. If that's a pin hole on the side of the handle in your drawing, those are a royal pain to try to get things aligned, and tight at the same time.

EDIT!! I had the wrong link for the ones I use...... It's now corrected! Here's the clevis I use... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O8O7Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I drill a 1/16" hole through the end of tang, spread the clevis and insert the pin through the hole (one side springs back into place), and you have enough "motion" to allow everything to be drawn up tight..... without pulling anything off, one way or another. I use these clevises for just about anything I build with a buttcap, or a "through tang" type of construction. I personally choose to glue everything up anyway.....but if you're neat and tidy, it makes for a great take-down type construction too. I just choose to glue, because I've had far too many clients wreck "take downs" in the past....everything from stripping threads, to scaring up fittings.....and then wanting me to repair their mistakes for free.

I also counterbore the hole through the back of the handle frame to fit the head of the 4-40 screw I use....or sometimes will even turn down the head if I choose. Some filework and/or coloring on the screw head adds a nice tough of detail.
Hey everyone! Just a heads up.... I had the wrong link in this post concerning the 4-40 clevis(es) that I use..... I have corrected it. My apologies!
 

Alden Cole

Well-Known Member
At a rough 400 grit handsanding on the blade, will go up to 600 and grind in the swedge. Fit up the guard with 416ss and am working with the client on handle material, though we are a ways from that point. We may add back bolsters, and if we did, do you think it would look odd to make them of brass? I'm kinda thinking it would.20210228_154717.jpg
 

Alden Cole

Well-Known Member
Ground and finished the clip, etched my makes mark, and finished the blade. Made a spacer that fits up to the guard, and rear bolsters. The rear bolsters are peened on and the guard and spacer were fit with alignment pins, driven up into place, and jb welded. The tips of the frame have nubs that slide into the spacer, but unfortunately there is a small gap between them. I also had trouble getting the handle fit up into it's place and there are big gaps, which I am not sure what to do about. Other than that, it is coming along great!20210312_154132.jpg20210312_154108.jpg20210305_163314.jpg
 

Alden Cole

Well-Known Member
Finished! Added a couple wooden spacers to get rid of the gap mentioned earlier. It is on it's way to CA right now.
 
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