Full tapered tang question

Shane Justice

Shane Justice

Active Member
This is my first time to actually post a question for how-to advice.

Not because I know everything, but because I rarely build full tang knives.

This one sort of grew that way as I was forging it. As it sometimes goes the tang has a slight taper to it when all was done.

The problem is, I did not account for having to drill holes for bolsters and handle slabs.

I am not sure how to make sure the holes are straight when I go to pin it all together.

Like I said, I am in new territory here.

I was thinking that I should just grind it down and make it into a stick tang, but I don't want to miss a chance to try something new.

Where can I go from here?

Shane
 
Center-punch good and deep to give your drill bit a good place to start. Shim the tang so the centerline of the spine is as level as possible, relative to the drill press table. Clamp firmly.

Next time drill first :D (I realize that's probably easier said than done when forging the tang)

When you go to drill the scales, the procedure's the same; clamp or spot-glue one scale to the tang, adjust so your centerline is level, drill the scale. Flip and do the same thing for the other side.
 
If you have the knife straight, and everything centered as it should be, center punch where you want your holes, then clamp it down at the ricasso, and shim under the tang. That should make the drill perpendicular to the center line of the knife. Go easy so the bit doesn't wander.
 
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Could you switch from bolsters to a guard? Is the area where the guard would be flat, that is not tapered? If so, you could make the slot for the guard at the end of the bar stock. Then leave the bar stock long. Drill the pin holes through the guard stock and blade. Place temporary pins attaching the guard stock to the blade and put the bar stock in a drill press vice. That should leave the tapered tang at the correct angle, centerline perpendicular to the quill. You always have to use a wedge of wood or something to support the end of the tang to keep the end of the tang from being depressed by the pressure of the drill as you drill.That's the way I drill scales for loveless type hunters.Tapered Tang Clamp.jpg
 
OK. I got it, Shims and prayers with a deep center punch. I should be able to pull that off cleanly.

Sticks, I could go that route. I will take a look at the area and see if I have the right shape.

Thanks guys!

SHane
 
Shane,

I'm sure that you will get the job done well. If you do use the method that I suggested, make sure that you fit your scales at this stage too. The angle where the scale meets the guard will be a little more than 90 degrees, for each scale. And the holes drilled for the tang will be at 90 degrees to the centerline of the blade but not the surface of the tang. So if you wait until after heat treat and peening of the guard to fit the scales, you'll have to find another way to keep the centerline of the blade perpendicular to the quill.

Jay
 
Drill the holes before you taper the tang. After HT and when installing the slabs I drill on top of a piece of wood in the vice. You can angle the wood in the vice just slightly to keep the blade level.
 
If he drills before tapering like a stock-removal guy would, then forges in the taper, wouldn't the forging knock the holes all catty-wampus anyway?
 
If you are doing bolsters, drill your holes through the tang and bolster material first. Then drill your holes for the scales. Then taper the tang. You don't have to account for any angles. Pound on the bolsters with a 3 lb hammer and you will be fine. It just works and it's easy. I've done it many times and the angle is never an issue as longer as you drill the holes first.
-John
 
Hey Shane the easy way is to jst drill the holes one size or more over sized. glue the scales on and then drill the holes for the pins. the holes in the tang don't have to fit tight on the pin.
 
Guys,
I am SO SORRY for not staying up with this thread. I have been having some more health problems that made it near impossible to type or any other fine motor skills. (ENUF said about that. NOBODY wants to hear about it.)

If I had been thinking while I was at the forge, I would have forged the entire handle section from the ricasso all the way back with parallel sides. Then I could have completed the first part of HT making sure the tang section is dead soft. Then profile and true up the handle section on the BURR KING. Drill holes, and then finish the HT (Hardening and Tempering) May not be entirely cricket to do it this way, but it may be the only way I am physically able to make it work.

At this point I may do it how Bill suggested. I don't have any fine motor skills in my hands. I even considered having a local machine shop do it. That may be the road I have to choose.

Funny story about this knife. It was one of the few I ever forged while I was at Willow Bow. I was forging this for a friend who is very big. 6'7" and about 360. His hands measure 5 and a half inches across the knuckles. (HUGE HANDS). Anyhow, we have a fancy camera now, my in-law's gave it to my wife for Christmas. Maybe I could post a pic of it so you guys can get a look at it.

As long as you all promise not to laugh. My knife making skills which at one time, were on the way to being pretty good are sadly almost gone.

Anyhow, thanks for all the good help.

Shane
 
There's always more than one way to skin a cat. If your forging a full tapered tang blade forging in the taper is the way to go IMHO.

I've used several different methods for dealling with the taper while drilling pinholes and this is by FAR the easiest-

Make SURE you've got a soft tang that'll drill easily !!!!
Glue up your handle material to the tang and you end up with a wedge shaped handle with the front being the wide part.
Now measure from the center of the tang (at the rear) to the outside of your scale. I use my caliper and lock it at this dimension.
Now transfer this dimension to all four corners of the scales still measuring from the center of the tang marking with a pencil
Use a straight edge to connect the marks so now you've got lines that are parallel to the center of the tang on all 4 scale edges.
Throw on a rough belt (36x) and grind to the lines.

Now the sides of your scales are parellel with the CENTER of the tang so you can layout your pin holes and drill without any special jigs or fixtures OR needing an absolutely flat parallel ricasso to clamp to.

Of course this method is only good for wood or micarta scales (preferably oversized) and wont work with stag/ivory scales where you cant just grind the outside to any shape.

Take care, Josh
 
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