Ironwood question

BonhamBlades

Well-Known Member
What does everyone like to use to finish ironwood if you prefer it not to darken with time and handling? Thank you in advance for your time and energy to answer.
 
Ironwood will always darken eventually in my experience. I take Ironwood to 1000 grit and then buff with white, Fabulustor rouge.
 
I am o.k. with darkening, however my handles are darkening to a level of loosing all contrast a near solid color. Which is pretty disheartening with the price of nice burl these days. I typically go to 800 grit and buff with the white as well. I am tempted to try clear coat or perhaps ca glue may help.
 
The problem with the clear coats, like poly urethane and such is they tend to wear, chip or flake off in spots and you got those little white rimmed, round blister areas. I've never seen any of those types of coatings on wood that didn't do that eventually.

CA might be better but maybe not if it doesn't block UV rays. Because it's the UV rays that darken it, I believe.
 
I always use tung oil of some kind, whether it's True-Oil or Deft Oil (mostly tung oil with evaporants to speed dry time)
Ironwood has plenty of oil and doesn't really need anything but a little tung oil helps the grain show up a little better..
 
I second what Tracy said.
This is just my opinion but I believe the exposure to air causes a bit of oxidation darkening the wood.
In my opinion even just paste wax is better than no surface finish at all.
If you do power buff be careful and use a very light touch.
If you press too hard it burnishes the wood causing the figure to dull right away.
 
I will normally sand it to 800 + then use ren wax on it. I put a couple of lite layers on but after each one I buff it real hard with a soft cotton rag. Don't use a buffer, it will give your arm a work out but it makes it look soooo gooood. I am allergic to it and some other woods and will break out and can't hardly breathe when using it so it does cost the customer quite a bit more for it, but most of the time they want what they want and I will take the money and suffer thru it.
 
Thanks guys I am just finishing up 5 with amazing Ironwood burl. I plan to take them to 1500 and either a real lite buff with white rouge or I may just do it by hand and finish them off with a few coats of tru-oil. Thank you all for your help it is greatly appreciated.
 
It doesn't matter if you apply finish or not in relationship to the darkening issue. Its UV that causes most woods to darken over time. The best example I can offer is Purpleheart....it will finish out a a brilliant purple....and over time will become dingy brown, not matter what finish is applied.

Personally, when it comes to ironwood, I've learned over the years that applying any liquid type finish is pretty much a waste, and often times causes many of the problems that John mentioned. My advice with most of th extoic woods is a fine finish, light buff, and a good coat of quality paste wax.
 
It doesn't matter if you apply finish or not in relationship to the darkening issue. Its UV that causes most woods to darken over time. The best example I can offer is Purpleheart....it will finish out a a brilliant purple....and over time will become dingy brown, not matter what finish is applied.

Personally, when it comes to ironwood, I've learned over the years that applying any liquid type finish is pretty much a waste, and often times causes many of the problems that John mentioned. My advice with most of th extoic woods is a fine finish, light buff, and a good coat of quality paste wax.


I completely agree with Ed
Besides ironwood won't absorb liquids. leave it dry and buff it.
 
Johnson's paste wax, birchwood casey gun stock wax, ren wax, pretty much any kind of paste wax. I've heard of some using turtle wax or any of the auto waxes.

Lately I've been trying and liking several coats of Howard's Feed 'n' Wax. It's a mix of orange oil and beeswax. It does a nice job oiling and waxing in one. On some woods, I use Birchwood Casey's gun stock wax over several coats of the Howard's Feed 'n' wax as a final finish.
 
I am so glad I found this thread. I have been drying out 2 huge slabs of ironwood burl for 3 years now and i think it is finally dry enough to start using it for handles.
 
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