KD Blade show slippie WIP

Sean Cochran

Well-Known Member
I am working on a slipjoint that will be auctioned to help cover the cost of the Knife Dogs Blade show booth(s). I thought I would do a WIP, so I hope I dont screw this one up.:eek:.
This one is made from Dan Seaver's raindrop damascus. Josh Dabney is going to scrim the handles when Im finished with it, then it will be up for auction here.
I hope to get liners cut and blade ground tomorrow, then begin assembly saturday. We are having a winter storm so I should have plenty of time so long as I dont lose power.:eek:
Blade and spring, mostly profiled.
102_1170.jpg


And just a quick dip to see the pattern
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Sean,

Thats looking good man !

I've been thinking about the scrim and have a few ideas ;)

It's gonna be a very classy slippie for sure !

Keep us posted on the progress

-Josh
 
OK guys since this is a Dog's knife I want to get some Dog's input. Let me know what you would like to see. Keep in mind the scales will be Ivory Micarta for Josh to scrim.
1. Linerless
2. Liners with N/S or SS bolsters or....
3. SS liners with cable damascus bolsters (my choice)

Also Im going to try to keep the build to a minimum of specialized tools (mill, surface grinder etc.) Im doing this so the WIP will be easier to follow for someone who dosent have these tools. I like the way Ryan is doing his WIP, Im going to try to follow his example. Again I hope I dont screw this up. Maybe I should have waited until I was finished and then posted all at one time.:)

Sean
 
Ok made some good progress tonight, even though it is 10 degrees and my little shop heater was working hard to keep it just bearable.
I really put some pressure on myself, no oven, no surface grinder, not single luxury.:) and doing a WIP plus this is a brand new pattern for me. Thanks to Ken Coats for the pattern. I know wah, wah, wah now shutup and make a knife.:D
Since I have never done this pattern, I drew the knife both open and closed to get an idea of what the liners need to be.
104_1179.jpg


After running the blade and spring through a temper, (I didnt show the HT) I needed to make the spring a spring. I laid it on a piece of scrap about 3/16" thick and used a propane torch to bring it up to a spring temper. You have to be careful and watch the color closely, it will go from good to "oh crap I went to far" fast. Just keep the torch moving and remember the metal the spring is laying on will continue to heat the spring after the torch is removed. Here is a nice blue.
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I started my layout on wood because it is cheaper than liner material.cool 1 Here I have laid out the spring and blade, then drew a line down the top of the spring, I drop the spring about .040 or so give or take.
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Now I pin it all to the board to check how everything is fitting together and how much tension I have on the spring. I have to take a little more off the spring just below the center pin so the kick hits before the edge. I like to get the bottom of the tang right first then work the half and open sides from that. That way I know I have a good closed position and the start of a good pull.
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I left the spring a little long on purpose that way I can take it down little by little until I have the blade at the angle I want.
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Hope that is enough for tonight.
 
excellent...I am really liking this and the timing couldn't be better as we start the KD Charity Build off...nice.
 
Sean,

I made a slippie once. Had the same profile on the blade that you have. ATS-34 blade and spring. HT-ed blade for RC 61 and spring temper on the spring.

After I had it finished the blade would "chisel" into the front of the spring where they come together.

My though is that there needs to be at least a tiny flat on the blade where it bumps into the spring.

Whats your take ?

-Josh
 
Sean,

I made a slippie once. Had the same profile on the blade that you have. ATS-34 blade and spring. HT-ed blade for RC 61 and spring temper on the spring.

After I had it finished the blade would "chisel" into the front of the spring where they come together.

My though is that there needs to be at least a tiny flat on the blade where it bumps into the spring.

Whats your take ?

-Josh

Josh
I had this trouble alot on my first slippies. The corners of the tang need to be rounded some, not alot though. This will help the blade to open smoother without catching on the spring. I round mine by hand, but I have a friend who does it on a belt grinder with a very fine belt. If you take too much it will throw off the tang and the spring wont be flush in all three positions. Hope this helps.

Sean
 
Sean,

I see what your saying. I did round my corners like you said and didn't have a problem there.

When the blade is opened and you run your finger down the spine of the blade towards and onto the spine of the spring it is and needs to remain a smooth transition. What happened on mine was the blade "chiseled up" a tiny burr on the spring. So now there is no longer a smooth transition on the spine where the blade and spring meet.

Hope this is a better explanation, LOL. The issue was on the spine of the spring right where the spines meet.

Thanks, Josh
 
Sean,

I see what your saying. I did round my corners like you said and didn't have a problem there.

When the blade is opened and you run your finger down the spine of the blade towards and onto the spine of the spring it is and needs to remain a smooth transition. What happened on mine was the blade "chiseled up" a tiny burr on the spring. So now there is no longer a smooth transition on the spine where the blade and spring meet.

Hope this is a better explanation, LOL. The issue was on the spine of the spring right where the spines meet.

Thanks, Josh

Ok, I misunderstood where the problem was. Ive never had that problem, the only way really to get that transition back smooth is to sand it back down. a small flat may help, but every bit you take off will raise the blade.


Sean
 
Almost made a big boo-boo. I cant believe I didnt see it when I laid out the blade and spring. I had the tang out past the spring.:eek: I moved it back then I had a new problem, the tang was too short. Lengthened the tang by filing the run up.
Also started flatening the blade and spring. I used a disc grinder and then hand sanded by putting sand paper on a slab. Still have a way to go, it is a sloooow process.:(
I should have all day in the shop tomorrow, my wife and daughter are going to a cheerleading competition. Hopefully will get the liners cut and fitted.

BTW, Kudos to Boss for the new folders forum.2thumbs

Sean
 
I thought I was going to get alot of shop time today, but I got called in to work. When a rig needs pipe we have to come running. Oh well, should get to work on the knife tomorrow.

Sean
 
Ok, got the liners cut, they are way oversized, I dont know exactly what the final shape will be yet. Time to drill the holes. I got a little ahead of myself and forgot to take pictures so I had to back up and take them thats why the holes are already drilled in these pictures.

I laid out the blade and spring and clamped them to the liner. I drilled the rear and pivot holes.
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Next I need to set the spring tension. I mark a line along the back of the spring, then dropped the spring about 1/3 of a hole and drill the center hole.
104_1195.jpg


Ill have more pics later. Dont be afraid to comment, Ive never done a WIP this detailed so feel free to let me know what I can do better, and if you are a slipjoint maker please let me know if there is anything I can do different or better. Thanks.

Sean
 
Ive got to work on it a little today, but I ran into a problem with the tang. This is a brand new pattern for me and it has given me fits. Hope to have some more pics soon. Also hope to get the knife done this week.
 
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