Knife Kiln

The max recommended temp for the Big Knife Kiln is 2000F
Thank you for your interest in our kilns
Sue
SCI
Good Kiln Div
765-339-4641


represent:bud:
 
BACKWOODSCUSTOMKNIVES said:
heres one of the best deals on the market ,great people to work with, call after 1pm eastern time,ask for sue,shes a sweetie

http://www.sugarcreekind.com/big-knife-kiln-p-2809.html
Click to expand...

I would second that, Sue is awesome and be sure to ask about any specials, their large "knifeamakers kiln" has been great, it's a steal of a deal. I didn't get the programable controls on mine...BIG MISTAKE, go ahead and get that added, it's about $250 more, but well worth it.(And it's the same unit that comes on the Even heat) I've had mine for a little over a year and it's given me great service, with no problems to speak of <knock on wood>, now I'm not saying the Even Heat Kilns are bad, actually they are pretty awesome, I just couldn't afford it. The only draw back on the Sugar Creek , I think their called Super Kilns, is the way the door opens, kind of a pain, but other than that, they are great! Even heats are built for the knife maker with a door that locks shut, and opens to the side, mine opens to the top, it's a minor inconvenience, the door stays closed from gravity, so there is no chance it can swing open, BUT there is a chance it could swing closed! Whiich could be painful if your not careful, I just put my welding gloves on, and hold it open grab my blade, close the door and straight into the quench, if I had the cash to buy what I really wanted it would have been the
Even Heat, the best piece of advice I got was to buy the biggest you can afford, and I haven't come close to making a blade too big for it. Tell Sue that Rex from Alabama recommended them, also tell her I told you to ask about any specials because you're tight on cash, she'll hook you up! Another thing you might want to keep in mind, their warranty will NOT be honored if you take it over 2000 degrees that is an important piece of info if your working with any of the CPM steel, I'm still using 1084 from our good buddy Aldo. If I ever use ATS-34 or CPM 154 I'll have to add the programmable unit to it, I think the HT on it is 1950, and it will keep climbing if I don't sit with it. For the money it's the best kept secret in knife making kilns, I think, Just my 2 cents. Keep us updated on what you find out, Rex
I would like to add that the 2000 degree thing was what I was told when I bought mine, I have never taken mine that high so I wouldn't void the warranty, I don't know if that has changed or not, so make sure you ask. Also, I had mine wired for 220, on it's own circuit, that's important. Because my Bro-in-law said so, he's the electrician and he knows his stuff! so I just said OK. I am smart enough to know that I'm NOT smart enough about electricity!
 
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McClellan Made Blades said:
I would second that, Sue is awesome and be sure to ask about any specials, their large "knifeamakers kiln" has been great, it's a steal of a deal. I didn't get the programable controls on mine...BIG MISTAKE, go ahead and get that added, it's about $250 more, but well worth it.(And it's the same unit that comes on the Even heat) I've had mine for a little over a year and it's given me great service, with no problems to speak of <knock on wood>, now I'm not saying the Even Heat Kilns are bad, actually they are pretty awesome, I just couldn't afford it. The only draw back on the Sugar Creek , I think their called Super Kilns, is the way the door opens, kind of a pain, but other than that, they are great! Even heats are built for the knife maker with a door that locks shut, and opens to the side, mine opens to the top, it's a minor inconvenience, the door stays closed from gravity, so there is no chance it can swing open, BUT there is a chance it could swing closed! Whiich could be painful if your not careful, I just put my welding gloves on, and hold it open grab my blade, close the door and straight into the quench, if I had the cash to buy what I really wanted it would have been the
Even Heat, the best piece of advice I got was to buy the biggest you can afford, and I haven't come close to making a blade too big for it. Tell Sue that Rex from Alabama recommended them, also tell her I told you to ask about any specials because you're tight on cash, she'll hook you up! Another thing you might want to keep in mind, their warranty will NOT be honored if you take it over 2000 degrees that is an important piece of info if your working with any of the CPM steel, I'm still using 1084 from our good buddy Aldo. If I ever use ATS-34 or CPM 154 I'll have to add the programmable unit to it, I think the HT on it is 1950, and it will keep climbing if I don't sit with it. For the money it's the best kept secret in knife making kilns, I think, Just my 2 cents. Keep us updated on what you find out, Rex
I would like to add that the 2000 degree thing was what I was told when I bought mine, I have never taken mine that high so I wouldn't void the warranty, I don't know if that has changed or not, so make sure you ask. Also, I had mine wired for 220, on it's own circuit, that's important. Because my Bro-in-law said so, he's the electrician and he knows his stuff! so I just said OK. I am smart enough to know that I'm NOT smart enough about electricity!
Click to expand...
FOR AROUND $65-75.00 YOU CAN PURCHASE A HEAT SINK,SOLID STATE RELAY ,AND PID CONTROLLER,THAT WILL WORK JUST FINE,THATS WHAT IM DOING TO MINE AS WE SPEEK,RAMP AND SOAK TIMES TEMP CONTROL, DOES IT ALL FOR UNDER 100.00 BUCKS,SET IT AND WALK AWAY
 
Ovens

Thanks guys for the info, sorry for the late reply something called work got in the way of Play. Have any of you hear of Olympic I saw them at Blade.
 
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