my first slipjoint

J.Leclair

J.Leclair

Well-Known Member
Hey guys, I'm currently working on my first slipjoint. I've always wanted to try to make one but have been too intimidated to try.....until now. If anyone has any tips or suggestions on how to make this easier please share.
I started with some sketches that I made photocopies of and cut out the blade. Then I used a tack to find where the pivot would need to be in order to make sure the spring would be flush in all 3 stops.

Once I had my design to where I liked it I transferred it to lexan to make a reusable template.

I then cut my blade and spring from 154cm, and drilled the pivot hole in the tang, and the Centre hole in the spring. Using a piece of scrap wood I pin my blade and spring in place and drew a line along the spine of the spring. Once I had the spring returning to its start point in open and half close, I filed down the kick until it would close with the spring still flush with the line.


Finally I ground in the bevels on the blade.

This little sucker is the smallest blade I have ever ground and as it has no handle was tricky to hold while grinding. I had to pinch my grind guide with one hand while supporting/pressing it into the belt. Glad I didn't mess it up :)
That's all the progress I made so far.
More to come.....
 
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Your off to a good start,you have a long way to go. I'll try to help you if you have specific questions.
Dont give up.
 
Looks like a good start to me too.

I see you have shaded on the bottom, front edge of the spring a lint trap. Looks like it will extend in quite a ways in the photos. When you grind that, make sure that the blade at half stop does not extend past the end of the bottom edge of the spring. It will make the folder less smooth to open past half stop and in worst cast very hard to open. Can also lead to troubles with the wear on the bottom edge of the spring too.

will be fun to see how your first folder turns out. Just wait till you have done thousands of folders like Calvin!

Erik
 
Thanks for the support on this project. I'm sure it will have its flaws being my first attempt but I'm going to get it done.
As to the "lint trap" I haven't decided if I'm actually going to file it in or not. If it will work better without then I will leave it.

My first question.... I don't have anything to use as liners other than some .030 g10, will that be strong enough or will I need to pick up some stainless? Also what thickness should I get if going with stainless?
 
Next time, make two blades end to end. That way you always have one end to hold onto while you grind the other.
 
Just lean on that other Robinson a bit. He's real good at those. So can that Don Robinson but he's kind of laid back these days. Don as some excellent info on making folders of all types available from USA Knifemaker Supply.
Frank
 
So can that Don Robinson but he's kind of laid back these days

I'm just too old, Frank. I'm not laid back, but my back is bowed.
 
J.Leclair said:
Thanks for the support on this project. I'm sure it will have its flaws being my first attempt but I'm going to get it done.
As to the "lint trap" I haven't decided if I'm actually going to file it in or not. If it will work better without then I will leave it.

My first question.... I don't have anything to use as liners other than some .030 g10, will that be strong enough or will I need to pick up some stainless? Also what thickness should I get if going with stainless?
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What will you be using for the handle covers?

You might think about just making a shadow pattern, but I'd recommend G10 at least .125 thick. Liners aren't a necessity, as long as the material you DO use can carry the pins hold up to the tensions and opening/closing of the knife. Now, that said, the liners could still be a nice decorative touch. Whether it'd be strong enough on its own if coupled with a weaker cover material, I can't say for sure. Depends on a few things...
 
Hey Don, too bad we couldn't some how just plug you in with what you know and have given out in the past we would have mega answers and ways to do things. I too am way slowed back in the making and getting crippled up. I lost in in this last move to a 7" X 9" shop but the excitement of the making and the mix with other makers is back again. I certainly don't have any ideas of grandeur I just go as I always have. I do my best on each folder I make. There are many whose blades are far more in quality than mine are. My simple answer to that is I sure enjoy looking at them.
Frank
 
Frank Niro said:
Calvin, Wouldn't the liners give a better "working base" for his first one?
Frank
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I assumed he was going to use steel liners,solder on bolsters and use something for scales or covers what ever you want to call them. Using expensive handle material in the first one would be a mistake.
 
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J.Leclair said:
Thanks for the support on this project. I'm sure it will have its flaws being my first attempt but I'm going to get it done.
As to the "lint trap" I haven't decided if I'm actually going to file it in or not. If it will work better without then I will leave it.

My first question.... I don't have anything to use as liners other than some .030 g10, will that be strong enough or will I need to pick up some stainless? Also what thickness should I get if going with stainless?
Click to expand...

Do not use the G-10 for liners,it's not strong enough. Get some stainless steel at least .030" thick,410 would be best.
 
Thanks for the input. I wasnt planning on doing bolsters as that's something that I haven't even tried on a fixed blade yet. I brought home some 1/16" scrap steel from work to try as liners. The Koa I was thinking about using as scales is also scrap from a previous project.
I really do appreciate all the time you fellows are taking out of your day to help me get this slippy right. (Or as right as I can get it my first try lol)
 
J.Leclair said:
Thanks for the input. I wasnt planning on doing bolsters as that's something that I haven't even tried on a fixed blade yet. I brought home some 1/16" scrap steel from work to try as liners. The Koa I was thinking about using as scales is also scrap from a previous project.
I really do appreciate all the time you fellows are taking out of your day to help me get this slippy right. (Or as right as I can get it my first try lol)
Click to expand...

The 1/16" steel will be good for liners except it going to rust eventually. If you don't use a bolster the wood may not hold up to peening your pivot pin.
 
I don't have a torch or any way to solder on a bolster would jb weld epoxy work? If not sounds like I will be ordering in some 1/8" micarta or g10 and go linerless
 
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