my knives

SHOKR

SHOKR

Well-Known Member
hey guys

instead of creating a new thread for every knife i'll just post the ones i finish here, unless i do something special

pointers and comments are welcome :)

starting with the sixth (rest are in other threads)

20121112_152913.jpg20121112_152944.jpg20121112_152926.jpg20121112_153040.jpg20121112_153016.jpg

this one has LOTS of bobo's...

4.7mm O1 steel, red and black G10 handle. my first tapered tang to finish (slight taper tho)
 
Shokr,
Looking good! One suggestion is to round out the corners a bit more more on the handle. They look like they could give give some Hot-Spots. Use some 220 grit paper then go to what your finish grit paper is?

We makers tend to forget that the buying public's hands aren't always as calloused as ours.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
bushcraftbasics, thanks!

i dont use jigs, i believe thats really not a good idea specially for a starter. what i do is grind as close as possible to what i want then handsand, for me that makes everthing neat. my opinion is work on your grinding skills free hand has much as you can, will even make the pesky hand sanding easier.

the other experienced knife makers of course might have better methods, but you did ask for a newbie's opinion :D
hope this helped
 
thanks Laurence

my hands arent callous yet :)/:(
but good point!! it feels really good in the hand except for my middle finger, i think i need to take some meat offf the tang at that part (already taken care of on the other ones i made with same profile)

i finished this handle all on the grinder with 120g so 220 will be no problem, unless i scratch the spine of course...
 
Whats soap? :p

Thanks Laurence. Honestly i cant imagine it so will have to check one now. The hard edges i agree with of course, but if you mean the hard ones on the side they dont bother even with a very tight grip. Besides i saw few makers use them. Anyway all that will be put to the test, well, as soon as i man up and sharpen those knives...
 
I have to concur with the "hard" edges on a handle. MANY years ago Ed Fowler made a comment to me...."If you can whittle a 4x4 in half with your knife, and not have sore spots/blisters on your hand when you're done, then you've designed a good using handle." (paraphrased). I actually did it with a 2x4, and only made it about 2/3 of the way through before my hand was blistered up! With time and trial/error, I learned how to produce a handle that was comfortable to use all day long. While all those "ridges and valleys" might look good, they can be pretty tough on the users hands.
 
SHOKR said:
bushcraftbasics, thanks!

i dont use jigs, i believe thats really not a good idea specially for a starter. what i do is grind as close as possible to what i want then handsand, for me that makes everthing neat. my opinion is work on your grinding skills free hand has much as you can, will even make the pesky hand sanding easier.

the other experienced knife makers of course might have better methods, but you did ask for a newbie's opinion :D
hope this helped
Click to expand...

indeed, well done friend! i agree with the philosophy of freehanding and am doing it that way myself...i just cant get straight lines like that yet!
 
Ed, thanks
i mist admit, the handle shaping is done purely for looks, someone told me those high spots will help with gripping but still i made it for looks, i think i will try that wood cutting test, i mean i have to test my knives anyway an will definitely learn more about handle design (which drives me crazy already)

bushcraftbasics, you will get there, it took me a WHILE and still my grinding needs lot of work, keep in mind that this is the 6th i finish but not in order, i ground like 20 blades so far. just a piece of advice i wish i recieved myself, stay with one type of grinding till you get it right then try something else after (ex. if you do 'regular' bevels dont try tapered ones until you are good at them, same goes for flat and hollow, etc.)
 
Really nice work one this knife. I agree with the others about the handle...I also understand that you want the "look" and went purely in that direction. There has to be some middle ground where the two can meet. Play with it and I am sure you will find out that you can keep the look and get comfort as well.
 
SHOKR said:
bushcraftbasics, you will get there, it took me a WHILE and still my grinding needs lot of work, keep in mind that this is the 6th i finish but not in order, i ground like 20 blades so far. just a piece of advice i wish i recieved myself, stay with one type of grinding till you get it right then try something else after (ex. if you do 'regular' bevels dont try tapered ones until you are good at them, same goes for flat and hollow, etc.)
Click to expand...

roger that...all of my blades are going to be full flat sharpened to a micro-convex...i keep trying to get that straight line across the spine until, viola! ...it vanishes and i have ground clear to the spine! :D I'll keep at it tho, like a true addict!
 
Thanks Eric, will do!

On past knives i did grind off those 'tips' on the handles so thought try these on this knife, and we shall see :)


Bushcraft, keep up the good work and do share pics :)
 
Shokr,
There are a few young makers that have gone a bit crazy with the ridging on the handle sides and they sell to a like minded group of young soldiers and some "want to be adventurer" types. If this is what the want? Great!

The other 90% plus of buyers and users do not want to have to increase the amount of wear and tear on their hands to accommodate the looks of a handle. This goes for Culinary, Hunters, Bushcraft etc...

I hand my knives over to my wife who came from a upper class family and is a school teacher who other than Housework and a bit of gardening etc, doesn't do hard work, when my knife handle's feel comfortable to her soft hands I know I probably have knife handle anyone could use all day and not be licking their wounds when they are done.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
Laurence, i definitely don't want to be one of those, i am going for the practical (and maybe good looking) knives, just experimenting with everything, and i know i have a loo-hoong way to go!

i actually let some of my friends hold knives in their hands, tell me what they feel, but alas all of them are even less experienced than i, but so far most say knives feel good (the one in question has not been tested yet tho). i thought what i was doing was just for new designs and beginning but i guess its a method to always be used :)

today i glued the handles on another one with same profile, will do smooth handle and compare
 
Finished this today
O1 steel, black linen micarta
20121124_233122.jpg 20121124_232837-1.jpg

Josh and Laurence, if you are seeing this, i finally used the slack, must admit, it was worth it!!

I just have a problem withvrecent knives, thevindex finger is not... comfortable. Dont know what the problem is. Some times i feel thevis too much 'meat' at the finger groove, sometimes i feel the discomfort in the joint itself!
Any ideas?

Btw which wheel do you guys use for the index finder groove?
 

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New ones!

O1 steel, 4.7mm thick

One had paxolin on it, the other black micarta with red liner

One 21 OAL and the small 16.5cm aprox.
 

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A quick photo of a WIP

6mm D2

Still unsure about the handle, it fits my hands exactly, but i need to generalize and take gloves into account probably

Also size of (front) choil, thinking about increasing it a bit so the user can 'choke' the blade

Any ideas or pointers are welcome :)
 

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SHOKR said:
Finished this today
O1 steel, black linen micarta
View attachment 36717 View attachment 36718

Josh and Laurence, if you are seeing this, i finally used the slack, must admit, it was worth it!!

I just have a problem withvrecent knives, thevindex finger is not... comfortable. Dont know what the problem is. Some times i feel thevis too much 'meat' at the finger groove, sometimes i feel the discomfort in the joint itself!
Any ideas?

Btw which wheel do you guys use for the index finder groove?
Click to expand...

Shokr.

I use the 3/4" small wheel mostly for index finger cutouts and the 1/2" for the other three if it's a small finger person or all 3/4" if they have Ape size hands like me!

From what I can see you need to roll the finger grooves more, creating a oval shape in your index finger cutouts. it's too blocky and that is most likely creating the discomfort in the joint.

Also move the index finger cutout higher towards the spine then place a radius circle ether up or down depending on how you want the other three fingers to ride on the handles?

Using the slack belt will become one of your best allies in handle shaping.
During a average day of handle sculpting I remove & replace the Platen a good ten to twenty times while working on several knives. Well worth all of the effort it takes to get a properly & comfortable radius on my handles.

Our hands are designed to hold a flattened egg shaped or oval handle. Not a true circle or a rectangular block.

To answer your questions about your latest profiled blank. Increase the height on your index finger cutout and drop the top of the tail of the handle. That should increase the ability to choke up on the blade without any other changes.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
thanks a lot Laurence

two parts i didnt get tho, the oval shape, lets assume i am looking at the knife profile with edge on left, have that oval horizontal or vertical by horizontal (at a 30 degree angle for example) also towards thw edge or the tang?

also the radius circle, up or down, i dont get that

thanks
 
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