oil for ivory?

GHEzell

Well-Known Member
I am in the process of making my first ivory handled knife, and I'm a bit nervous to say the least. The ivory is pre-ban elephant, nice and white, and the knife is full tang.

What I need to know is, what is the best way to finish them? I am reluctant to use linseed oil as it has a tendency to yellow over time, but I highly suspect an oil finish would be beneficial. Any information on working with, finishing, and maintaining ivory scales would be most appreciated.
 
Hey George,
Try pm'ing rootes-of-ohio. He sells stag and tusk material. Should be able to help you out. BTW I still love the NT KITH seax.
 
You won't need any finish on ivory other than progressively sanding to 2000 grit and a super light buffing with white or green rouge. Be sure to use sharp sanding belts to keep the ivory cool. If it gets hot it,ll crack later.
 
DON'T use any finish! Just sand down to 1200-2000 grit, then LIGHTLY buff it on a CLEAN buff. I will warn you now about elephant or any of the "fresh" ivories....they are like concrete....it's not a matter of IF they will crack or check, it's a matter of WHEN. Several years ago against my better judgement, I agreed to produce a bowie for a collector with elephant ivory. I finished the knife, and had it laying on my leather bench, while I went into the house for a glass of tea. It was sitting in the sunlight for less then 10 mins....and when I cam back out to the shop, the handle was cracked with about a 3/32" crack from front to back! After that incident, and the time/money it cost me for more ivory, I simply refuse to use anything other than fossil ivories.

Anyway, work the material slowly, and do not allow it to heat up/cool down, otherwise it will check right in front of your eyes. As I said earlier, no finish! Ivory needs to "breath"....about the only maintenance is a heavy coat of baby oil, let it set with the baby oil on it overnight, then wipe it dry the next morning.....that should be done about once a year, or more often if someone stores it in something like a gun safe with a dehumidifier.

Even though the ivory might be "old" per-ban stuff, it's still "fresh", and will "move" with changes in temp and humidity.
 
I've been told sunlight is the bane of ivory... or one of them, anyway.

I'll try the baby oil. I recall once reading that mineral oils were not good for ivory, but I can't seem to find it again. Perhaps clove oil, or some other very thin oil?

I had been told of the danger in over-heating it, but I still appreciate the reminder. I'll likely do all the shaping and finishing with hand tools, just to stay on the safe side.

Thanks guys! Patrick, glad you are enjoying the seax...:biggrin:
 
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