question for the experienced damascus users.

[Von Gruff]

This is the email I have sent to the seller of the stainless damascus I have done these two knives from

I tried to etch the two blades today with a very dissapointing result. Seeing as this was my first damascus I went to a good friend, John Worthington of Ripi Knives who I believe you know, to make sure I got it right and to learn the correct way to do the etching.
I had taken the blades to a 600 grit finish and after cleaning them with isopropyl alcahol they were suspended in the ferric chloride with checks every few minutes initially but when there was little change we left it for longer each time. after a half hour there was a visible change to the center core which was exposed by the bevel grind but nothing was showing on the rest of the blade. after an hour in the 4 to 1 ferric chloride we gave it a scrub with a tooth brush to remove any scale build-up and highlight the already darkened center core but still nothing on the remainder of the blade. After a full 2 hours etching we tried a mirror polish and a further 10 minutes etching with the same negative result except for deepening the etch on the center core and still nothing on the blade so is there some part of this process that needs to be done differently as I can not sell a knife with such a minimal and non effective etch when this is supposed to be a full pattern in ladder and rainbow for these two knives with the customer having seen the bars as they came from you with the pattern so very visible.

I would be pleased if anyone can shed any light on this problem

 

[J. Doyle]

If its stainless, you might need hydrochloric acid or muriatic acid to etch. Ferric chloride will likely do nothing to it.

 

[EdCaffreyMS]

I could be more accurate if I knew the specific steels (stainless) used. However, in general, when dealing with stainless damascus, the etch requires Hydrochloric, heated to 200-220F. Typically folks do this outdoors, and once the blade is placed in the etchant, it's agitated CONSTANTLY for 10-20 mins. It's a major pain in the butt, and I don't need to remind everyone how dangerous 200+ degree hydrochloric acid would be...... but if you want a good looking etch.....it's what's necessary for STAINLESS damascus etching. Muriatic could also be used, but it's best to have it BOILING when etching (even more of a hazard).

I'm certain there are other was it could be done, but suspect those would be even more dangerous. My advice is if unless you're willing to go through all the hassles and dangers, just stick with carbon steel damascus, and use ferric chloride to etch. Frankly, there are very few stainless damascus mixes that could be remotely considered "performance" as it applies to a knife blade. It's generally about the wow factor of it being stainless damascus.

 

[bladegrinder]

On Damasteel, which is comparative to the stainless your using, I etch in muriatic acid. for Damasteel it only takes a short soak to get a proper etch. but be forewarned, if you can, have a fan at your back, those vapers will lock up your lungs for a few seconds if you breath them in. unlike ferric, this acid will make bubbles on the blade as it etches so you need to move it around a little while it's happening.

 

[Von Gruff]

Appreciate the answers and as muriatic aicd is readiy available I will try that. Fortunatey I had left the edge at .4mm / 1/64 so I can sand off the un etched ss to get it back down to the etched core as there is a very noticeable felt step between the two.
what is the correct type of container to heat / boil the muriatic acid in