Recent Work from the Hatcher Shop

Shawn Hatcher

Well-Known Member
I just finished these three and thought I'd share. Thank you for checking out my work!

First up is the "Shelton Cleaver" in .315" O1:

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Next is the "Song Cleaver" in .200" CPM154:

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And last is the "Plesskin" in .280" O1:

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Some group shots:

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That cleaver is very cool and very well done. What is the blade finish? Nice work in all three.
 
Thanks for all of the kind words, guys! I'm not worthy of it. Like Dennis Miller says, I'm just a young kid with a dream . . .

What is the blade finish?

The O1 knives have what I'm calling my "Force Aged" Finish. I use the gun blue/bleach method. The fumes from this process are deadly, so it must be done outdoors and with proper PPE (respirator, goggles, gloves, etc). Here's my process:

-Shape the scales to the tang and very, very deeply etch my makers mark and steel type.
-Tumble the knife for about 30 minutes
-Apply gun blue (I've been using Birchwood Casey's Super Blue) with steel wool
-Rinse knife with hot water to help set the bluing and warm the steel
-Submerge the knife in bleach (I use a 4" PVC tube to hold the bleach and use SS wire to hold the knife)
-I very lightly agitate the blade in the bleach for anywhere from 30 seconds to 4-5 minutes, depending on what I'm after
-Rinse the knife thoroughly with water and then coat liberally with penetrating spray
-Scrub the corrosion off with steel wool
-Tumble for about 10-15 minutes

I sometimes do 2-4 cycles of the above procedure before I'm happy.

If you decide to try this, be prepared for your knife to look like it sat on the bottom of the ocean for a month. Here is the above Plissken after pulling it from the bleach:

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Thank you for the information and photograph. I have done the same process, minus the hot water rinse after bluing.
 
Shawn,
You are doing the same Bluing & Bleach torture to the CPM-154 blade? Or is that one just tumbled in a media?

The above CPM154 cleaver was only tumbled. I haven't tried the bluing/bleach treatment on any stainless steel. I usually use muriatic acid to darken stainless.
 
Wow, Shawn! Those are amazing. Very well executed.

Thanks for sharing your process on the forced aging. I have been wanting to ask you about that.
 
the cleavers are sweet I have drawn up something like them just haven't pulled the trigger but now I have too...thanks awesome work
 
Stupid question inbound...

Are these knives suitable for meat prep/butchering in regards to the type of steel/finish used? I know stainless is (more of?) a safe bet, but I don't know much about the rest in that regard.
 
Shawn, Love the look of all of these. Your work continues to impress! Thanks for sharing and for the extra info on the finish.

Blessings
Randy
 
Stupid question inbound...

Are these knives suitable for meat prep/butchering in regards to the type of steel/finish used? I know stainless is (more of?) a safe bet, but I don't know much about the rest in that regard.

Carbon steels have been used for butching since they were invented, The finishes that Shawn had applied do help inhibit oxidation and and blood itself will Patina a carbon steel as well. My choice is to use Stainless, "Its been around 120 years appox" but many around the world still use and like carbon steels with a acid bath or just a blood forced Patina for butchering tools.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
Are these knives suitable for meat prep/butchering in regards to the type of steel/finish used? I know stainless is (more of?) a safe bet, but I don't know much about the rest in that regard.

My friend Laurence summed up my thoughts perfectly. I prefer the lower maintenance of stainless steel for kitchen use. Regarding suitable finishes, a tumbled or satin (either by hand or machine) finish is ideal for a knife that is going to see a lot of use.
 
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