stabilizing

Brett Long

Brett Long

Well-Known Member
i want to learn how to stabilize my own wood. not going for resale or anything but just want to learn how to do it. can some one point me in the right direction either books or websites. thanks in advance
 
The above method works well, but the results are far from having the wood professionally stabilized. Take the author's cautionary advice if you heat the wood hardener.
I've been using Acryloid B-72 for approx. two years; works better, in my opinion, then the Minwax. I use an approx. 20% weight to volume mix with acetone. I just soak my scales in a 1/2 gallon mason jar until they sink, then let them stay in the solution for another week or so after that.
Again, not professional results, but good enough for me, and I'm real picky about stuff like this.
http://apps.webcreate.com/ecom/catalog/product_specific.cfm?ClientID=15&ProductID=17018
 
basically you are just looking for a vacuum. i have large vacuum pump that i use when i do A/C work. so i take a large glass jar with a metal lid add a fitting with a valve and bam a vacuum tank. what do you think will it work. will post pics as soon as i find a jar. everything is plastic these days.
and what type of chemical should i get. the min-wax stuff is available at the local store. this was going to be my first choice so i don't have to order anything. second was a chemical that was mentioned earlier satonite or something am going to try that also.
 
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Troop, when using B72, does the solution cure in an oven, or just from drying? I looked at the site you posted, and it says Tg (*C) 40 which converts to 104*F, so I am just unsure what the number means.
 
Go to this website. It is Shagnessy's and go to the bottom of the page and you will see what might help you. Shag has alot of knowledge in this area. I might be a little bias because he has always helped me and the first one to answer my questions.

http://meridianknives.shutterfly.com/


Or contact Larry, great guy willing to help when he can.
 
Go Mike said:
Troop, when using B72, does the solution cure in an oven, or just from drying? I looked at the site you posted, and it says Tg (*C) 40 which converts to 104*F, so I am just unsure what the number means.
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Mike, I just air dry the scales for at least a week; two weeks is better. As soon as the scales come out of the solution, I place them on a baking or grilling rack to let them dry evenly. If they start to warp, I place them on top of a 1/2" thick steel
plate, covered with wax paper, "belly up" to reverse the warp, for a few hours.
But, no major problems with warping.
The vacuum set ups are the way to go; but like I stated previously, it works good without the additional equipment. (AND, it's relatively cheap!)
I've never had any movement using this method; just make sure the wood is good and dry before the treatment, MC less than 12%
Mike, the solution that I use, Acryloid B-72 and acetone, doesn't need to cure. The Acryloid goes into solution (it comes as solid resin pellets) with the acetone, soaks into the pores of the wood or antler. When you take them out of the solution, the solvent (acetone) evaporates, leaving the Acryloid to harden inside the pores of the wood.
 
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I like the B-72 and vacuum. I will pull a vacuum on the wood in solution. The first time it will look like alka-selzer. I pull vacuum (3) times about 30 Min apart then just let it soak. A week works great. Then two weeks to dry out.

Paul
 
How thick of pieces are you doing. Will this method work very good on 1" or 1 1/2" thick pieces?
 
I use the B72, Mini-Wax Wood Hardener mixed 50/50 with acetone. I use the foodsaver lid on the 2 quart Mason Jars. I leave the wood in the jar till it sinks. I put into a oven at 150 degrees for a hour, but it isn't all the way cured. I leave it for a month before using. You can speed it up with longer cycle time in the oven.
 
Indian George said:
I use the B72, Mini-Wax Wood Hardener mixed 50/50 with acetone. I use the foodsaver lid on the 2 quart Mason Jars. I leave the wood in the jar till it sinks. I put into a oven at 150 degrees for a hour, but it isn't all the way cured. I leave it for a month before using. You can speed it up with longer cycle time in the oven.
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this is what i am going to try. i found a large mason jar at the store. but as for the 50/50 mix with acetone and the minwax, is that just to thin the mix out? i have already done one piece and just let the jar sit in the sun, its pretty hot out here. then i put it in the fridge until the lit got sucked in. i want to use the mason jar lid sucking thing but cant find one. not a whole lot of need for canning in vegas i guess
thanks for the advice guys just trying to do something until i can get some more steel.
 
Indian George said:
I use the B72, Mini-Wax Wood Hardener mixed 50/50 with acetone. I use the foodsaver lid on the 2 quart Mason Jars. I leave the wood in the jar till it sinks. I put into a oven at 150 degrees for a hour, but it isn't all the way cured. I leave it for a month before using. You can speed it up with longer cycle time in the oven.
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IG - How much B72 are you using in your recipe?

Thanks!
 
I'm going to give that a try IG. I have some nice blocks of hard maple burl that will get the treatment.
This has been on my to-do list for a while, its time I get off my rear and do it.

2thumbs Fred
 
IG, you use the B-72 and MinWax Wood Hardener?

I've tried the Wood Hardener alone, with modest results. I must say it did darken the wood(Olivewood) quite a bit.
 
Indian George said:
I use the B72, Mini-Wax Wood Hardener mixed 50/50 with acetone. I use the foodsaver lid on the 2 quart Mason Jars. I leave the wood in the jar till it sinks. I put into a oven at 150 degrees for a hour, but it isn't all the way cured. I leave it for a month before using. You can speed it up with longer cycle time in the oven.
Click to expand...

IG what Foodsaver are you using? I can not seem to find any that will work on a jar. Also is this stuff the same that you used on the small horns you did?
 
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