Steel question for thoe with more experience than me (everyone :)

kbog

Active Member
So I finished a first blade in 1084. I found it easy to work and heat treat. I have also ground a number of knives in A2, but I have not treated them yet, so I am uncertain of how difficult they will be to grind after hardening. I'll know soon enough.

My question is this:

Is there a steel out there that is a good quality steel that is relatively easy to work pre and post heat treat, that has never let you down? The old stand by steel is what I'm looking for. The folks who are interested in buying my blades thus far are not knife junkies looking for the absolute best super steel. They cannot name a single steel, although some might be inclined to just say "stainless." They certainly will notice quickly three things, edge retention, ease of sharpening and stain resistance. I think that most will like the idea of stainless as they will want the knife to look good. I also think they will like the idea of edge retention as they are probably not wanting to sharpen often...ease of sharpening will come last as they will probably just have me do it when needed.

I want to buy a "batch" to save some money in heat treat and to just have a "go-to" steel that simply works for most people...I just don't want to experiment for three years, before I figure it out myself...my rate of knife production will always be low (maybe 25 per year)...

I see excellent makers stick with some steels...D2 and Dozier come to mind...
3V?
CPM 154?

What steel do you really just like, even though maybe it is not the latest and most stylish super steel that cuts through bridges?

Thanks for any opinions.

Keith
 
440 C is easily available and has good performance. It was my first stainless in 1986.
To me it's always worked easily before HT even with AO belts. With the advent of the ceramic belts, there's nothing to stand in your way post HT. It finishes well with a mirror polish or even fine scotchbrite belt. It's both oil quenchable or in just air/ plate.

Of coarse workability is dependant on your equipment and ability as in any other steel. If doing the heat treat with a foil wrap, you can finish the blade to 95% with very little clean up. I'll do a 600 grit cork belt finish before HT if using foil just to be ahead of the game for final finish.

Rudy
 
I agree with Rudy that 44OC fits the bill as a stainless steel that has never let me down since 96, and though the CPM-154 is a ungrade in finer grain structure and I use it a lot these days you will not find any knives made with 440C lacking in any regards of stain resistance, Edge holding or ability to sharpen.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
If I could paraphrase what I'm after, it would be "that steel that just works well every time and my customers like too." 440C is a terrific response and as I think about it, one of my very favorite blades ever is in that steel. I quickly became a knife "snob" and have tried numerous steels, but that good old Benchmade Griptilian really does perform fantastically.

Great answers and thank you for the input.

Keith
 
What about Sandvik 12C27? It seems to be good and with only a 5 minute soak for .100" thick blades required. It is easier for me to hold a close temperature for that 5 to 6 minutes rather than trying to hold for the full 15 minute soak for 440C. 440C is also good, both are similar in cost.

KenH
 
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For a good all around steel that is well respected, easy to grind pre & post heat treat, holds a good edge, & is fairly easy to sharpen. You will be hard pressed to find something better than CPM-154 to have a better balance of all those qualities. AEB-L & 13C26 also come to mind but they are only rolled in fairly thin stock. (.140" max.) CPM-154 comes in just about any thickness you could ever need and Aldo can fiz you up with just about any size bar or plate you may want. Oh, by the way D2 is a bear to grind after H/T.
 
For a good all around steel that is well respected, easy to grind pre & post heat treat, holds a good edge, & is fairly easy to sharpen. You will be hard pressed to find something better than CPM-154 to have a better balance of all those qualities. AEB-L & 13C26 also come to mind but they are only rolled in fairly thin stock. (.140" max.) CPM-154 comes in just about any thickness you could ever need and Aldo can fiz you up with just about any size bar or plate you may want. Oh, by the way D2 is a bear to grind after H/T.

I agree with Darrin, CPM 154 is my go to steel.

Stan
 
The Sandvik steels fit al your requirements,I like 14C28N the best. D-2 holds an edge longer but is not stainless although it dosent rust readily.
 
You did not specify whether you would be doing your own HT or sending it off, that is important! If you are sending it
off for HT, use which ever steel fits.the intended task. If you're doing your own HT, I'm with KenH on the 12C27 Sandvik
its hard.to beat, for high.quality stainless steel.
Rex
 
Thanks for the great replies. For now, I'm sending the steel out. When I move out of my basement I will consider my own heat treating.
 
I would echo Stan and Darrin on CPM 154. It is my go-to steel and I love working with it. Combines all three your elements very well, and Aldo can get you whatever size you need in just about any thickness.
 
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