Recent content by Blackcatt

I prefer Blaze belts by a huge margin! I have tried to like the 967 and 977 belts, but I just don't have as good of results or belt life. For the price Tracy sells Blaze, I'll probably stop looking at other belts for a while. I do wish he carried the 220 Blaze belts as they are very nice for...

I have been super impressed with all the Bohler steels I've used. Their M4 and A11 mods are incredible!!

I get way less chipping on 35vn when I go for a polished edge like Frank describes.

The fact that you're asking is a good sign. I will echo the statements above, and also add that a good website will probably be worth the time and $$ is takes to set it up. If I can easily fill my cart, see pictures of what I'm buying, and quickly pay online I will come back whenever I need...

I use the bimetal blades from Grizzly. They are not the best, but they work pretty well for the price. When you're cutting 6-4 titanium and lots of 3V, M4, A11 etc I like the price/performance point of the cheaper blades.

You can try to make the hole with a center cutting end mill too, they won't walk on you like a drill bit.

Also, it depends what price range the basic knife is in initially. If it's a $500 knife then you could probably charge more extra than if it's a $200 piece. I would add the price of a set of norax belts and a little more for time.

No idea..the stamp may not have anything to do with the steel type. I would probably see how it polished up, and if it did well, then I'd have a lifetime supply of bolsters and buttcap material. Otherwise you're just gonna have to go for it and try to harden some then see if it will hold an edge.

6V4 ti is very strong stuff when compared to steel at liner lock thickness. .100 is perfect for your 1/8" blade and smaller. I usually use .125 for a beefier frame lock and with a thick blade (.1875) it is a somewhat thick knife for the pocket. The thick stuff, .150"+ is cool too, but I like...

If the steel wasn't differentially hardened then it would be dishonest...but since you had the best in the biz (in my opinion) do it, I would have zero problem with this action. The customer wanted the hamon to be more visible and that's what you did for him. Pick customers more carefully next...

To add, Tom Anderson has an excellent tutorial on anodizing ti in the tutorials section. He is pretty much a ti ninja.

I may go another route and darken the guard on the knife with the Caswell black oxide gel for stainless. You can apply the gel in a very thin coat with a small brush after taping everyting else off.

I find it much harder to take to a fine finish than 154, which is pretty much the easiest stainless I've worked with. 35 still has those stubborn scratches that most high V steels seem to have. It does hold a really sharp edge...currently one of my faves for kitchen knives.

I have read this a few times...why does the cathode need to also be titanium? I'd think stainless etc would work also.

I mic mine and usually polish up the pin with a 65x norax belt. This will usually shave a couple thousandths and then I just use the fractional bit.