Had to redesign

Gahagan

Gahagan

Well-Known Member
Well I made my secound attempt at HT using my sugar creek kiln and salt brine. The first came out great ( after I figured out the steel) The secound, well i was cleaning it up and noticed a crak in the blade. I was a little upset but then decided to "redesign" the blade I ground up past the crack and reshaped the blade. Here are some pictures of the original, the crack , and the new desighn. Let me know what you think of the two different deighns. Is there too much recurve in the new design for a hunter?
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the second looks really nice,think the belly would work but everyone is diffrent some might some not think its a toss up but i like it if that counts
 
yes I like the new design better myself that is why I ask if it is too much recurve because If the general idea is it is ok I will start making them this way instead.
 
It has good visual appeal. You might want to see if the recurve gives any shapening problems but other than that I'd say go for it.

Doug
 
That's a good point about sharpening. I like the new design too, flows better to me. But how do you sharpen an interior curve?
 
New design looks awesome!

I've tried mousepad/sandpaper to sharpen interior curves, but not for one that pronounced. Enquiring dogs want to know ...
 
Looks good! I wonder if you could take a cheap diamond stone, one of the ones that is just a piece of diamond-coated sheet metal glued to a piece of plastic, break it free from the plastic and bend it to make the surface convex? Just an errant thought on sharpening recurves.
 
I really like the recurve design ! But honestly I'd never pick it as a hunter because the only part of the blade that would get used is the last 3/4" or so. I can't think of a situation hunting where a recurve blade would be a plus.

Tactikool EDC- All the way ! Some carbon fiber with bright red or green liners- Oh heck ya !

-Josh
 
I am not a big recurve fan, but it does look good. Different people like different things and I am sure there are plenty of folks that would want one of those.

As for sharpening, I would think a tirangle sharpmaker or a diamond or ceramic rod would work fine and they are readialy available.
 
You "fixed" it, but don't you care about why it cracked in the first place? I'm thinking that the crack goes farther than what you can see with the naked eye and the blade stands a good chance of breaking at some point in the future, especially if it is used real hard like chopping on wood or being struck repeatedly with a baton.

Then again maybe I'm all wet. It looks more graceful now.
 
I know why it cracked. There was a slight recurve in the original design and that area of the blade edge was thin.I had a feeling it would crack before I did it. I ground pst the crack so I believe it should be good.
 
I have a suspicion that using a brine quench may have played a role in it also. I know that many sites recommend using a brine quench with 1095. Though it doesn't say so, it's my understanding that the brine quench is for LARGE industrial applications, not something the size of a knife. I don't remember where I read this, but it was on the internet so it must be true! ;-)
 
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