Quick Folder Screw Question

Daniel Rohde

Well-Known Member
I'm about to get some folder making stuff and I have two questions about screws. I'm going with 2-56 screws and I'm not sure what length to get them in?(.125",.250",.375",.500")

I'm thinking I should just get somthing like .375" long and I can shorten them if need be, which brings the second question, what's the best way to shorten the screws?

Any help would be great! I'm just getting into these...so Excited!

EDIT: what pivot size would you recommend?
 
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Shortening the screws is pretty easy. I have a small piece of hardened O1 that I tapped with a half dozen holes of the most common sizes. Screw the screw in and let what you want to get rid of hang out the back. Hit it in the belt grinder an zingo! They are shortened. When you screw them back out the threads are straightened back out.

as far as size, get as many as your pocket book can stand. I shake my head when I look at my plastic tray with screws and bushings and it's over 300 bucks!

Erik
 
Although it sounds as if your just getting started on folders, I would encourage you to take a look at the hardware offered by Steve Kelly (TiConnector.com), I believe Tracy sells them too. Anyway, yes they are expensive, but they will make your life 100X easier when it comes to folders. The reason is the super tight tolerances that Steve demands in his hardware. I use the import stuff for several years, and was constantly fighting with every folder I produced, trying to get everything "right". One I started using Steve's hardware, for lack of a better way to say it, my folder just sorta fall together. I don't have to spend a day "tweaking" things, the folders just work.

Erik nailed how to shorten screws. Over time you will likely have several different thicknesses of plate for shortening screws. I actually have one plate that has 25, 2-56 holes in it! :)

I agree with Calvin on pivot size.... I general use 1/8", but there is a large segment of folder makers who wouldn't use anything less then 3/16.

I'm working on a couple of short videos dedicated to a few "tips" on building folders, and hope to have them ready to post just after New Years.
 
Thanks everyone!

So, what I'm hearing is that buying longer 2-56 screws is fine(there not to hard to shorten), buy high quality hardware(Ticonnectors in this case), and even when you spend allot you don't get much ;)

I'm thinking I will try and stick with a 3/16 pivot.

it is smart to buy a bunch of cheaper stainless 2-56 screws while working on it and then add the titanium screws fo final fitting and finish?
 
is smart to buy a bunch of cheaper stainless 2-56 screws while working on it and then add the titanium screws fo final fitting and finish

A resounding NO from me. The reason I say that is because IF you build a folder using the cheap import screws, they will allow things to be "off" during the build, and when you try to replace them with the tight tolerance screws, something is very likely going to be "off" (out of line, etc). I keep a small drawer of "assembly" screws that of the same exact types and sizes of those used for final assembly. That way the final assembly works exactly the same as the building phase.
 
like Ed said, you want to "build" using the same screws as your final assembly.
Most guys will use one set of screws to fabricate and then for the final assembly, substitute new screws and check the fit.
t
 
Well, sorry but I don't agree. The stainless screws and pivots sold by USA knifemaker supply , when they have the size I want ARE quality to begin with.
Frank
 
I wasn't trying to "dis" anybody who sells hardware, screws, etc. But I can tell you from personal experience, if you're using import screws and other hardware with "lesser" tolerance for folders, and then try the ones that TiConnector sells, you will quickly find there is a major difference. It took Steve about 2 years to get me to try the hardware, simply because of how expensive it was......but now I simply won't use anything else..... its that much better.
 
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