WIP -- 1st knife from scratch

[tedinatl]

Makes complete sense, Pieter. I guess the only downsides are that it takes longer and that the epoxy "rivet"then consists of two parts, which might not be as strong - not that I think that is a significant issue with decent epoxy.

 

[OmegaRed]

this thread is an emotional rollercoaster! i've been enjoying reading it all

 

[seionage]

Ted that is the way that I do my scales work perfect and there is no misalignment when you do it this way.

+2.

That's the plan!

 

[seionage]

Forgot to take pics, but I drilled my pin holes through the tang/scale. They were already in the tang, so it was just an exercise of lining up the holes.

I drilled through the opposite scale, and then attached the 2nd scale. I made sure I had enough expoxy to cover my file work.

I let it sit for 24hrs.

 

[seionage]

Here you can see the holes that came through the first scale that was epoxied to the tang.

Other side, after I took the clamp off.

Note:I'm not worried about clamp impressions *this time*, only because I know I have a lot to sand off. Next time, I will put some wood between the clamps and the scales.

 

[seionage]

Here I'm drilling through scales for the pin holes.

1st hole

2nd hole

Now you can see all the way through. ;-)

Note:Next time I'm going to put tape on the scale the drill will come through. This will prevent any chipping. I know I have a lot to take off, so I wasn't too worried.

 

[seionage]

time to break the profile down.

Hitting it with the wood rasp

5min later

getting really close where I'm exposing the tang.

 

[seionage]

finishing it off with some 220 for now, wrapped around some barstock.

 

[seionage]

So the next question I have, is about profiling the handle.

Here's what I'm kinda thinking

Are there any tricks out there for you do? Or, do you just start sanding until you get something you like?

 

[tedinatl]

I rough out the profile first (the blue lines), and then round the edges until it feels comfortable in my hand. I'm sure one of the more experience makers will chime in here soon.

 

[seionage]

that's kinda my thinking. I'm going to take the wood rasp, and rough everything out (or is it rough everything in? ). Then, start block sanding.

 

[James Terrio]

Yup, that will work.

Tip: next time you need a file or rasp like that 4-in-hand in your pics, buy Craftsman brand ones at Sears. They'll replace 'em when they wear out. I do use Nicholson flat files so I can make blades out of them when they get dull, but I've started getting all my wierd shapes and whatnot from Sears.

 

[seionage]

Started to shape the handle. I had a brillian idea (famous last words, I know. ;-) ). What I did was cut a piece of paper into a square, that I could lay over the top of the handle.

I then folded it in half. I then cut the curves that I wanted for the handle.

Then, when I unfolded it, I had the same curve on both sides.

I sanded off the previous blue lines I had on the handle, and outlined the new paper cutout.

 

[seionage]

Time to start breaking the handle down.

Little more profiling

pretty close to being roughed in.

I can see I'm going to need to take more off.

 

[seionage]

The other side.

showing both sides

done for the night. need to think about this some more.

 

[tedinatl]

Looking good!

If I may make a suggestion. Glue (epoxy) your pins in, and shape them with with rest of the handle. In my experience with working with wood and inlays, etc, it produces a smoother transition.

 

[seionage]

Thanks! Always looking for feedback.

That's the plan. I just want to get closer to my final shape. I didn't want to be constantly raking the pins with the wood rasp. Once I have the shape I want (and after I'm done working with the wood rasp), I'm going to epoxy them in. Then, I'll file the pins down, and finish sanding.

 

[tedinatl]

Great, my comment was completely in line with what you were planning in any case. I don't use a wood rasp much (I use a file, or the grinder/Dremel), which allows me to glue in the pins at the same time that I put on the scales. Same result in the end, so I guess it doesn't really matter.

 

[Steven Janik]

Looks great so far, you are definitely doing this the hardest, and probably most fulfilling, way possible. I would suggest that when you set your pins that you spin them in a drill and use the sharp edge of a file to cut some rings in them to retain some epoxy. Since the original epoxy has fully cured the new stuff will not permeate the old and the pins will be slightly less than 100% effective.

I use a fixture to stack the scales will the pre-drilled blade on top and drill my pin holes through everything at once and when you epoxy everything at the same time, you get a monolithic bond where everything is supportive. If you choose to put your pins in afterward because of the hand rasping I would use a stepped Corby or Loveless style bolt to secure the scales.

Other than that, you should be commended for your hard work and great WIP.

Thanks,
Steve

 

[seionage]

Hi Steve,

Thanks for the kind words. I had planned on doing exactly that. My plan is to put the pins in the drill, rough them up with 150ish emery cloth. Then, take a file and, very gently, cut 3-4 rings in the pins (I already purchased them when I ordered the steel). They are 3/16" shamrock pins. I'm hoping they go along with the green scales.

--Dave