Search results

Stunningly beautiful knives as well as photography to make them really pop.

Beautiful job on the grinder, Its like a souped up KMG on steroids! You should sell that design to Rob Frink on a Percentage basis. Brad

http://www.usaknifemaker.com/drills-taps-saw-blades-tap-reamer-counter-sink-bores-c-98_32.html

In my opinion, lack of a platten is a large part of your current problem, especially if you are just learning to grind. Learning to grind WITH a platten can be a challenge. Trying to fight a flopping belt and keep things even would multiply the learning curve tremendously.

Sharpening angle should be based off of the blade centreline. If you base the sharpening angle off of the bevel, it will change the included sharpening angle depending on bevel width.

you can also use steel plates of sufficient size.

Bimetal hole saw, drill press, and some water soluble coolant or rapid tap will work wonders.

Lerch, Before you run out and buy something to store LN in, you may want to do a little more research first. My first call would be to where you think you are going to buy the LN from and see if they will even sell it to you. They absolutely will not put it in a 25 quart ice chest. Some things...

It's the steel. I ordered some 1080 and 1084 from Kelly when I first started making knives and had the same problem. After smoking dozens of bits, including a pile of cobalt bits, I ended up using carbide tipped concrete bits to get holes in it. Even then I could only get 6-10 holes before the...

So you are saying the oven ramped up and the temp display indicated the proper temp (say 950 degrees), then sat at that 950 for half an hour undisturbed (no peeking), and at the end of the half hour your blade was not at 950? If thats the case, either your infared temp gun is off, your...

Review your program and verify that your ramp rate is set for "9999". By the above quote, it sounds like the oven will eventually get to desired temp just very slowly. It may be as simple as a programming error.

Wickett & Craig has always sent me top quality leather at a reasonable price.

Personally, I would go with the CPM154.

If its an Evenheat, see this thread: http://knifedogs.com/showthread.php?t=7575&highlight=rampmaster If not, more details about the oven are needed.

Rusty wire will plug the liner up. You can take the liner out and soak it on mineral sprits and try to blow the crap out of it. If that doesnt solve the problem, you are probably looking at getting a new liner. If you arent going to use the welder for long periods in between uses, take the wire...

If you use a toaster oven, set a couple of bricks in it to stabilize the heat and use an oven thermometer for accuracy. I let it warm up good and set my blades on top of the bricks.

Thanks for that link Larry! My dad's old bandsaw has been sitting out in the shed for a few years now because I couldnt find the o-ring style drive belts and this guy has them. I need some urethane tires for the other wood bandsaw I bought to replace it as well. 2thumbs By the way, Nice Dobe...

Looks pretty cool, especially the bottom left corner. I think if you add more of whatever you used to make the voids it'll be even better. 2thumbs

Put a brand new 36 or 50 grit Blaze belt on your grinder and taper with that. You'll be amazed at how easy the steel comes off.

I think he better ramp up production, I can see him selling a pile of them.