Have you heard the latest Rumor about Bossdog................

kdg-v2-belt-side.jpg


kdg-v2-motor-side.jpg


Here is Version 2 partially assembled. We still have some design work to do. The tool table needs to be done but that shouldn't be that hard. Famous last words there.

We haven't even started on pricing side of it. I can't even ball park it.

We are using Beaumont Metal Works (KMG) drive and tracking wheels.
The motor mount is a standard 56C face so this is direct drive of course.
We'll have to come up with a better spring (door spring now) and handle (bolt now)
There will be an optional speed control mount.

We still need to design a tightening bolt for the pivot arm. Right now it is a 2 wrench job and that won't work.

I am need to source some flat head bolts in 1/2" dia. Not easy locally I'm finding out. I used 1/2" carriage bolts and ground them flat for the pivot arm.
 
Boss,

Looking nice! I love the option for the VFD mount on the front.

BTW I am doing a grinder build right now and went to round up my wheels from the venerable usaknifemaker.com website and noticed that the 8x2" poly contact wheel was gone! :eek:

Say it ain't so :( or is it just out of stock for now???? ifso any idea of when it will be back in stock? I am really eager to get this thing up and running soon.

Nathan W
 
Now I normally dont get into rumors, But I HAD to check this link out! Pure genus.

And some of you guys are just to funny!
I will be waiting for a price B4 I get to excited. But its gona be one heck of a grinder by the looks of it!

Great job Boss Dog!
 
venerable.. I like that.

The VFD mount was a must do. I think most of these will be VFD.
Dave and I spent a half hour on the phone this afternoon, we have the work rest figured out. It will add a lot of value. I made him go draw it up this afternoon. Idle hands are the devils playground. :p

We got flat cleaned out of 8" poly's and I didn't see it coming. I have more on order but it will be 3 weeks. Go for a 10".:cool:

Wloch248 said:
Boss,

Looking nice! I love the option for the VFD mount on the front.

BTW I am doing a grinder build right now and went to round up my wheels from the venerable usaknifemaker.com website and noticed that the 8x2" poly contact wheel was gone! :eek:

Say it ain't so :( or is it just out of stock for now???? ifso any idea of when it will be back in stock? I am really eager to get this thing up and running soon.

Nathan W
Click to expand...
 
Boss/David - lock washer on the main pivot bolt and one wrench will do. At least it worked on mine. Knowing you and David, ya'll will probably go to some space age high tech deal that is jsut plain bad a$$. I like the idea of grinding off those bolts, I wasn't that smart, I just built mine away from the tool arm with washers and adjusted the wheels accordingly. Really nice design on the whole rig, super cool!!!!
 
BossDog said:
kdg-v2-belt-side.jpg


kdg-v2-motor-side.jpg


Here is Version 2 partially assembled. We still have some design work to do. The tool table needs to be done but that shouldn't be that hard. Famous last words there.

We haven't even started on pricing side of it. I can't even ball park it.

We are using Beaumont Metal Works (KMG) drive and tracking wheels.
The motor mount is a standard 56C face so this is direct drive of course.
We'll have to come up with a better spring (door spring now) and handle (bolt now)
There will be an optional speed control mount.

We still need to design a tightening bolt for the pivot arm. Right now it is a 2 wrench job and that won't work.

I am need to source some flat head bolts in 1/2" dia. Not easy locally I'm finding out. I used 1/2" carriage bolts and ground them flat for the pivot arm.
Click to expand...

I've got a name for this grinder.... Sexy A$$ Grinder! Or Dead Sexy Grinder! S.A.G. wouldn't sound as snappy as KDG, but it would tell the truth! Seriously, Boss, Dave, yall have done a helluva a job, if I can afford one, I might see if it can happen. One option you could offer, is to have the customer do the assembly, that might make it affordable enough. Also, will the accessories be compatible with the KMG? I hope so, because if I can get a second grinder, I would want it to be compatible with my KMG, Thanks, Rex
 
I am not an electrician. I haven't a clue what I am doing. You should NOT follow my example. You could kill yourself or fry your digits. You have been warned.
(Wayne Coe, in your opinion, was that a good enough warning?)

I'll look it up and insert it. Anyway, this is a VFD controller in a NEMA 4 environment case. NEMA 4 class means dust and and splashing water. It is not waterproof. Here it is mounted to the upright on the base plate.
I bought it here:
[FONT=&quot]
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[FONT=&quot]Product Code[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Product[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Unit Price[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Tax[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Quantity[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Total[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]KBAC-27D (Gray)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]9520 - KBAC-27D Gray Inverter[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]$340.01[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]$0.00[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]1[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]$340.01[/FONT]


vfd-in-nema-4-case.jpg


Back view. The mounting tabs match the holes in the upright perfectly. Dave nailed this one.
back-of-vfd.jpg


The leads enter/exit at the bottom center. I have a soft rubber plug for the center hole I will cut to fit around the power and motor wires. It is a standard knock out hole size. I think I will get some knock out wire clamps. They don't seem to be included here. I'll have to install those and seal the hole up with something. Probably a light gob of silicon.
vfd-open.jpg


I bought the motor from Electric Motor Warehouse..
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[/FONT]​
[FONT=&quot]110918[/FONT]​
[FONT=&quot]1 1/2hp 1725RPM 56C Frame with base three phase TEFC Leeson Motor[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]$249.60[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]$249.60[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Cart Subtotal:[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]$249.60[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]UPS/Purolator[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]$20.46[/FONT]


The motor, 1.5hp, 3phase, 220/440volt, 1740RPM motor.
motor-plate.jpg

motor-plate-close-up.jpg


Open the wire box on the motor and find any where from 7 to 12 wires depending on your motor type. This one has 9. They are labeled T1 through T9. Yours may say P1 or L1. There is no standard here.
wiring-leads.jpg



Using wire nuts, it is common to have a few wires just connected to each other and nothing else. In this case we have 3 wires connected together and they just get tucked back into the box. Then we will connect the other wires as the diagram shows. We will have 3 leads coming into the motor. See the motor plate. These are called L1, L2 and L3. I will connect a couple wires from the motor to the VFD following the diagram. In most cases, you don't have to worry about L1 going to a specific terminal in the VFD. This is 3 phase and it will use each leg equally. Don't forget there is a ground wire so you will have 4 wires from the VFD to the motor.
wire-nuts.jpg


The VFD manual shows how to wire to the motor and to the power. Many (most?) VFD's will accept either 1 or 3phase input and voltage from 110 to 440v depending on the model. I will be feed it single phase 220v. The diagram shows how to wire it for 3phase and single phase. This is very common. Note the Ground lead. Don't even think of using this with out wiring the ground. Seriously. In my case, and probably yours, this is either a 30amp or 50amp power source. It only takes 10amps to kill you dead.
wire-diagram.jpg


That's as far as I can go tonight since my wife has so thoughtfully saved the 4 lead cable I bought somewhere that no one, including me can find. I'll find that and get back to this.
 
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Cable glands are the bee's-knees. That's what I used. You can occasionally find them in the big box stores like Sutherlands. I haven't had luck finding them in Lowes or Home Depot.

--nathan
 
'xactly the ticket..and thanks for saving me the trip to HD or Lowes. Off to Menards now.
 
:eek:Nice Controller T. I may be givin you a call on gettin one as soon as my friend looks at my motor to see if yours will work for me;)2thumbs
 
I bought cable glands which look exactly like those on the picture (but gray) in local Home Depot. The only item for my VFD setup I had trouble to find in HD was 14/4 cord which runs from VFD to the motor. I had to order it online.
 
lel said:
I bought cable glands which look exactly like those on the picture (but gray) in local Home Depot. The only item for my VFD setup I had trouble to find in HD was 14/4 cord which runs from VFD to the motor. I had to order it online.
Click to expand...


good news, bad news.
bad news I didn't go to HD today so I couldn't find any of the cable glands. I used a round knock out cable clamp and plumbers putty. The good news is you can get the 14/4 cord by the foot at HD which is where I got mine.
 
Chopping the 4 strand 12ga wire cable for the power. I used my last WIP blade I screwed up. The edge held up nice so it gets some use at least. It is now a shop knife.
chopping-cable.jpg



There are several knock out holes in the wire box on the motor. I pick one and punch it out to run the power cable into.
round-knock-out.jpg


There is no ground wire. You have to wire it to the green colored screw in the back. Every motor I have wired up has it this way. I used a bit of other wire I had and made a pig tail lead to connect to the cable. This is just a bit of wire a couple inches long to make it easier to connect to the ground wire in the 4 strand power cable running into the motor. This motor is 3 phase so it needs 3 legs and a ground. That means it needs 4 strand cable from the motor to the VFD. The power coming into the VFD is single phase (in my basement and yours too) so that cable is 3 strand for 2 legs and a ground.
ground-pig-tail.jpg


I've wired up the other three wires and tucked it back in the box. I won't close the box up until I see which way the motor is rotating.
motor-all-wired.jpg



I have a cable clamp for a round knock out hole in the bottom of the VFD. Naturally, I wired it all up and didn't have the retaining screw on ring where it was supposed to be. :rolleyes:Un-wire it. Put the round ring in the right place. Re-wire it. :eek:
ring-on-wrong-side.jpg



This is the VFD all wired up. On the left you see 3 wires running to the motor. You don't have to worry about matching these terminals to the wires on the motor. To the right on the terminal block I have two wires leading to the power cable that plugs in the wall. Connecting both cables is the ground wire. I have used another pig tail to connect the ground (green screw) to the two ground wires. I didn't have a green wire so I used a black.
A couple notes. I did not solder the wire ends. One stray wire here from one lead touching another can really throw some sparks. I checked very carefully. In fact I found one little broken wire strand inside the box I had to remove. Best practice would be to solder the braid or use a terminal Y connector. I didn't have any heavy enough so I just twisted the wire (clockwise please) attached it to the terminal. Strip away just enough insulation to connect to the terminal.

(NOTE: Any electricians or any one qualified, jump in any time with any corrections or best practices. I've wired several of these but that doesn't mean I know what I am doing. )
vfd-wired.jpg


wiring up the plug.
plug-wired.jpg
 
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I looked for a cable gland that was suggested earlier in the thread. I couldn't find any. I used plumbers putty to plug up the hole so no metal dust gets inside. Metal dust inside electronics fuses to electrical paths and components and eventually builds up enough to arc and short out the unit. You can blow out the metal dust (and I would often if you have an open VFD) but eventually, it will blow and let the magic smoke out.
plumbers-putty.jpg


Naturally, when I tested the motor, it was running backwards so I had to switch a couple leads at the motor. Once I switched those it ran like a top.

I sill have some tuning to do. The platen doesn't line up but I don't have any longer flat head screws. Stacking a few washers will cure that. I will put a ceramic platen on also. (that will not be included in the kit but can be added as an option).

The Leeson motor is very quiet when running with no lateral load on the shaft. Put some belt pressure it and the motor picks up a tick like a bearing isn't quite rolling right. I'm going to run it anyway until (if ever) it fails. It is very smooth and the VFD works well. This VFD is NOT reversible. They can be purchased as a more expensive option. I guess I will just never run it backwards.

Let's see it running...this is running, the flash stopped the motion.
The small wheel. This is a 3"
small-wheel-running.jpg


Still running. The slack belt position.

You can get your own swivel arm >here<.

slack-wheel-running.jpg


The big wheel. In this case an 8" poly.
big-wheel-running.jpg


Still running and finally the flat platen.
flat-platen-running.jpg


Motor side view.
motor-side-view.jpg


We still have plenty of work to do:

A one handed method of tightening the pivot arm. Right now it takes two wrenches and midget.
We still need to finish the work rest. It should be cool.
We are looking at the fasteners and standardizing those to minimize part assortment.
The current spring won't work. I need to find a source for a decent spring that doesn't cost 10 bucks.
I'll need to test it with a 10" wheel.
We need to find flat head 1/2" bolts. Right now I am using hand ground 1/2" carriage bolts for the wheel mounts.
I think we can have something in place by Blade. We'll see.

We haven't started pricing yet but the pivot arm makes it attractively efficient. This does NOT include the motor or VFD. A major SWAG: more than $500 but less than $1k. That is closest I can get right now just from seat of the pants. The purchaser would need to assemble the frame and wheels. All connectors and wheels would be included. Every thing would be included except the motor (and VFD if you went that way).
 
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