"W"s from Walla Walla

Hi Burton,
I checked out your Ironwood/Feather Hunter. Very Nice! They are all very nice.
It seems the more of this pattern I do the more I learn. Its a challenge for sure. The reward is worth the punishment though.
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Hi Bruce,
Thank you very much for the encouraging words! I am always very inspired by your work and threads like this are very enjoyable. I know it takes some effort to put together a very thorough WIP and it is much appreciated. The feather is challenging for sure. The last one I did I went for the cleave a bit early with not enough layers. It made an interesting pattern but not a real feather. That is why I started a new billet that will hopefully turn out much nicer. Hopefully one will turn out half as good as the one on your bowie pictured:) Regards -Burton
 
I annealed the billet at 1500 for 2 hours and ground off the scale from all 4 sides and checked the pattern. It is very small and compressed and wouldnt take a picture well enough to show yet but it looks good.

I decided to slice it up into 4 pieces and that should make 2 smallish size bowies and a couple folding knives.

I think my bandsaw is getting tired because the gear box was pretty hot by the time I go them all cut out.

I forged out one of the thick slices into a bowie. Before I forged it I mig welded both edges just incase it wanted to open up. Feather patterns do that sometimes so this is a safeguard, maybe not neccesary but good insurance. The mig weld will get ground off after it is to length.

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After drawing it out some I couldnt tell which side the spine was to be. Remember the hot chisel cut was off center? I wanted the small half of the billet on the top so there would be more feathers on the dropped edge. This next picture shows that I ground off the scale just enough to see my pattern so I wouldnt forge it upside down. Actually it might look better upside down but that wasnt my plan. Its funny with feather because some makers have them going away from the handle and some have them going toward the handle. I like mine pattern heading away from the grip with the narrow feathers on top.

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Bruce,
You sir, are a "mad scientist". This is incredible work. I would like to make a motion that we create an award for overall creativity, skill, and sharing of info and call it "The Brucie". Of course, I'll never win it but I can find some guys on this forum to nominate.

Steve Janik
Humblus meekus observerius (humble observer).
 
Wow!! Mad Scientist indeed!! That is awsome work Bruce. Can't wait to see the pattern in the blade when your done!
 
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I made some headway on the blade today. It is now roughed out and heat treated. Next it will get re-ground and a guard.

The pattern is pretty sweet. I kinda wish it was just an inch or two longer but this is a nice sized gents bowie at about 7 1/2" long blade. I need to heat and bend the tang to match that sambar taper. This will be a take down hidden tang construction.


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Hi Bruce, I curious about the non scaling compound in that second to last pic. I never knew anything like that existed. I bet it is a real time saver. How is it applied? And after heat treating how easy to remove if at all?

Thanks for sharing. As said by others. Your giving so freely of your experience. Is worth more than most would ever be able to afford.

You my friend are truly paying it foward.

Thanks Again
Bing
MLazyB Custom Knives
 
Hi bruce thanks for your work on this WIP looking great. What kinda TPI do you use to cut something that thick Thanks
 
MLazyB said:
Hi Bruce, I curious about the non scaling compound in that second to last pic. I never knew anything like that existed. I bet it is a real time saver. How is it applied? And after heat treating how easy to remove if at all?

Thanks for sharing. As said by others. Your giving so freely of your experience. Is worth more than most would ever be able to afford.

You my friend are truly paying it foward.

Thanks Again
Bing
MLazyB Custom Knives
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Hi Bing,
This stuff is sold by Brownells and is great for heat treating gun parts that are at the correct size and close to the correct finish. It is called PBC (anti scaling compound) and is sprinkled on or the small pieces can be dipped into it at about 600-900 deg F. I mostly use my electric oven and take out the blade about those temps and it melts onto the blade and coats it. Two coats are better. After the oil quench it begins to just pop off by itself and leaves nice shiney steel underneath. Boil it in hot water to remove the rest. Sometimes just running hot water over it and scrub it with scotchbrite will take it off.
I use it on my hammers and triggers and springs for the pistols too.
 
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Billy Helton said:
Hi bruce thanks for your work on this WIP looking great. What kinda TPI do you use to cut something that thick Thanks
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Hi Billy, I just use a 18 tooth per inch Lenox DieMaster II blade for everything except for maybe thin titanium that tears the teeth off the blade.
 
Bruce, I am amazed at the work you do and what is more amazing is you are willing to take the time to share with us how you achieve these works of art.

I recently did a WIP and it took twice the time to get the job done, but it sure was fun to do. I guess sharing has it's perks.

Thank you for taking the time to share.

Larry
 
Stew said:
Bruce, what size is that wheel on your grinder? It looks like a beast!
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Hi Stew,
Its a 14" wheel. I use it for almost all my blades now. It works great on pocket knives as well as big blades. If you get one be sure you have variable speed otherwise the surface speed is too fast for good control. I like to turn this one way down for control on fine finishing work.
 
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That is an awsome looking blade Bruce! I will have try some of that antiscaling compound. I do have some that I bought from brownel's that is not a powder but almost looks like morter. You smere it on the blade let it dry then put the blade in the oven and harden it. It also just kinda falls off after the quench.
 
SPAknives said:
That is an awsome looking blade Bruce! I will have try some of that antiscaling compound. I do have some that I bought from brownel's that is not a powder but almost looks like morter. You smere it on the blade let it dry then put the blade in the oven and harden it. It also just kinda falls off after the quench.
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That sounds like it would work too. I've never seen it before.
 
Bruce,

Forgive me if you touched on this elsewhere, but I am mainly seeing blue zirc belts on your grinders. What are your feelings on these versus the ceramic belts (Blaze, 977, etc) that many others(including myself) are currently using? Thanks in advance.

Erin
 
Erin Burke said:
Bruce,

Forgive me if you touched on this elsewhere, but I am mainly seeing blue zirc belts on your grinders. What are your feelings on these versus the ceramic belts (Blaze, 977, etc) that many others(including myself) are currently using? Thanks in advance.

Erin
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I bought a box of 50 of these zirc blue 40 grit belts 132" long for around $25. That was a couple years ago but they're almost gone now so I will be in the market for a good deal on more. Actually I've never used a Blaze belt but hear you guys raving about how far they will go. Do they come in 132"? Ebay has been good to me but for some reason there arent any good deals on 132" belts anymore. My grinders will use 72" belts too so let me know if there is a sale somewhere.
 
LR Adkins said:
Bruce, I am amazed at the work you do and what is more amazing is you are willing to take the time to share with us how you achieve these works of art.

I recently did a WIP and it took twice the time to get the job done, but it sure was fun to do. I guess sharing has it's perks.

Thank you for taking the time to share.

Larry
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Thanks Larry. Its fun to do the WIP but you're right it takes time out of my day but heck I cant stay in the shop all the time. :D
 
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